Egonlab Fall/Winter 2023
by Anna Barr
Following up on last season’s collection, Egonlab has made it clear that they don’t want to be an elitist brand, but really something they want people to have fun with. If the key trend for Spring Summer was Preppy then Egonlab is giving us something of a semester dropout for fall, dropping out to finish a good book or maybe finish an album. If we haven’t been there, at some point we wish we did.
“Parasomnia” marks their 7th collection and we are starting to see more of their vision, fashion/art/rock group Palaye Royale walked the runway giving way to the collection that celebrated individualism. I’ve been thinking a lot recently about another type of fashion, maybe fashion without fashion. What we are seeing isn’t a dictated total look or one strict vision, but one that taps in on today.
People are spending less and collecting more, looking at individual pieces to add to their already existing wardrobes rather than total looks. This is very much the Gen Z ethos, and Egonlab knows this. It’s more about finding those pieces that are missing from your closet whether it’s an extra-long Hogwarts- inspired scarf or a floral glitch print, it’s about the juxtaposition of what you already might have and what you want to explore and add. You might already have oversized faux fur and then will be looking for a fitted pair of jeans by Egonlab, or visa versa. Designing a collection with this in mind may be part of their vision of people having fun with it, but it also shows how they are rethinking how designers need to think if they are going to combat the environmental impacts of consumerism.
When having to define what makes a designer French, it is usually something found in the intertwining of bourgeois and bohemian identities. Florentin Glemarec and Kevin Nompeix understand the intersectionality of vintage and genderless, like they understand that we can’t continue to consume more without looking at what we already have while taking that inspiration and modernizing the look with a slew of romantic blazes, Zoom Suits (business on the top, party on the bottom), attention to expanding denim along with riffing on particular fixtures like flannels, stripped knits and even on deconstruction that is reminiscent of something passed. If things didn’t seem so coherent, it’s because that reflects what we see on the street or at school, a Hodge podge of fashion that is refreshing in the day and age of homogeneity. I asked the stylist sitting next to me what he thought of the collection and he said “it’s Saint Laurent, but rough around the edges.” Which I thought was the best description of that French je ne sais quoi.
Take a look at the collection below:































Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2023
Kidill Fall/Winter 2023
For FW23, Flaneur present their “somewhere in europe” collection, paying homage to the birthplace of the Flaneur, and the brand’s home in Paris.
Max Kobosil, the founder of 44 LABEL GROUP, organized a rave in Paris during fashion week to celebrate the launch of his brand’s new Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
We caught up with KIDILL‘s artistic director Hiroki following their Fall/Winter 2023 presentation during Paris Fashion Week at culture hub 3537.
Japanese designer Nigo and Kenzo welcomed a start-studded crowd last Friday to their fashion show and after-party during Paris Fashion Week including a live performance by Lil Baby.
For more than 160 years, Louis Vuitton has managed to expand its universe through numerous artistic collaborations.
Designed by Scott Ramon Seguro Mescudi, also known as Kid Cudi, Members Of The Rage is a
Ready-To-Wear collection for outsiders everywhere, designed in Los Angeles and Made In Italy.
Titled “Homme Fatal”, ARTURO OBEGERO’s FW23 collection takes inspiration from the infamous female archetype and redefines it as a seductive and magnetic man who does not cause danger.
Conceived as leitmotifs, the L and V intertwine their immaculate lines to create an architectural motif.
Inspired by the world of The Simpsons, this fun and functional collection from EASTPAK features many of the show’s characters in a mix of layered and all-over prints in 7 different styles.
SYSTEM STUDIOS Fall/Winter 2023 collection was built under the concept of “Returning Legacy,” looking back at the 32 years of its history and refocusing on the essence of the brand.
This season LES BENJAMINS casts its eye on the pre-existing notions of Earth and
its far-flung locales into something more abstract and aesthetically distant.
Estelita Mendonça unveiled its Fall/Winter 2023 collection photographed by João Octavio and styled by Simão Bolivar.
2023 is set to be the year of menswear at Christian Louboutin, with standout styles that promise to take the modern man’s wardrobe in a bold new direction.
Photographer Alexánder C. Luque brings us a selection of the best looks captured in the streets of Berlin during Berlin Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
This season, Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats return to the essentials, perfecting apparent simplicity and transposing into soft colors and textures the pure lines and minimal cuts that are the foundation of UNIFORME.
For the 2023 Co-Ed Collection, Maison Margiela conceives a multi-layered premise inspired by the procreation of Count and Hen, the fugitive protagonists introduced in its Artisanal 2022 proposal, Cinema Inferno.
This season, a change of perspective helped guide the direction for Ernest W. Baker‘s Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
“Kosmische” is the name given to the unveiled proposal, which deals with the philosophy between fashion and the street, as the brand weaves diverse cultures into its designs.
Exploring a theme of transformation and playing with the relationship between past, present, and future, sacai designer Chitose Abe presents a collection of looks that transfigure into something new.
For Fall/Winter 2023, WOOYOUNGMI has been inspired to reflect on the historical relationship between South Korea and the West.
Surprise! Ludovic de Saint Sernin is back at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, after celebrating the fifth anniversary of his eponymous label last September.
We don’t know what it is about Marine Serre‘s show, but it always causes a frenzy in the French capital.