Video ÉDITIONS M.R Menswear and its semantics
by Yari Fiocca
Around today’s capitalist and conflicting fashion world where consumers are more demanding and rather unconscious of their buying habits, coherence is one of many design philosophies’ collapsing linchpins. Modern consumption mirrors an unsentimental zeitgeist and an apathy toward essentiality that results in a brand’s loss of authenticity and intimacy. This state of affairs does not affect Mathieu de Ménoville and Rémi de Laquintane in the slightest. The old pals behind ÉDITIONS M.R, former Melindagloss, have a way with their intimate visions and their own creative confidence. Mathieu and Rémi’s Éditions does not show servility toward ephemera but there’s a passionate admiration for classicism and its timeless statement. A cultured label of the Parisian couture’s nouvelle vague that refuses any sort of consecrated formality or overstated foppery- neither a Great-Masculine-Renunciation demureness nor the modish unnaturalness à la jeunesse dorée. The FW 2016/17 collection is presented like a tranche de vie in a film commercial where clothes are offered in a real-life milieu with no exaggerated cinematic rhetoric in order to capture best the spirit of the brand.
Filmed in a Paris whose fascination and romanticism go with a flamenco chord progression – except for a guitar-and-vox performance of Darling by Clémence Gabriel of the pop/rock bandThéodore, Paul & Gabriel -, DANS MA CHAMBRE, directed by Sarah Valente and starring Alexandra Rudakova and Jean Lemerse, has got an intense composure and a defiant, somewhat-surreal vibrancy. The interiors of the La Louisiane– chambre 42, in particular- are dear to the designers who both have found shelter in this hotel in the very heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés a while back. Whether it is a shawl-collared striped robe on the male protagonist or the corduroy jacket with faux shearling collar worn by the girl dashing down the street, each and every piece of the collection in this short story pertains to a defined lifestyle, a contemporary man, his caprices and mutations, his essence. The creative duo’s sensibility and nonchalant – or décontracté – sophistication are such undeniable design powers that it seems that the dress itself fades away as it betrays its real meaning.
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