CoSTUME NATIONAL Homme Fall/Winter 2016
by Yari Fiocca
From being a fashion incompetent person to turning into a trendoid, it’s a short step- in other words Dalai Lama can easily turn into Bryan Boy!-. We live in a world where even an unstylish pipsqueak might become ‘the belle of the ball’ with the ‘perfect’ styling that- often- is the wrong one. The word moderation is a typo of fashion- be careful generalizing, you may say- or, pardon me, it’s been like this since being overexeedingly dressed is the last thing.
In the case of Ennio Capasa, you can’t convert a soul so deeply entrenched in the 90’s minimalism- but, most importantly, you can’t convert a man who cut his teeth assisting Yamamoto-. However, minimalism has its wild side, too. With a limited palette- imagine Mark Rothko’s N.61 rust and blue and Ellsworth Kelly’s Blue, Green, Red which are both part of Costume’s AW16 colour scheme- Capasa builds a collection so sophisticated that really packs a punch! Rock is linchpin of Costume National: urban warriors walk down with skinny trousers, squared shoulder jackets, shiny velvet blouses and waistcoats worn on bare skin- damn, that really rocks!-.
This time to experiment is important to assert the centrality of fashion- declared Capasa- but, if those glitter prints on velvet, fil coupè on nylon and three-dimensional embroideries have to do with Ennio’s experimental procedure, I admit that all this experimentation has brought about sensational results. The man behind Costume National is a ‘beautiful mind’ who’s often unfairly unappreciated but, please, let me be brutally honest: Ennio Capasa’s pure aesthetic is so significant that it is more than capable of kicking our trendy asses without missing a beat.
Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2016
Les Hommes FW16 Backstage!
Since launching his eponymous Lutz Huelle label in Paris in 2000, the German-born designer has built a reputation for reshaping codes that capture a certain joy that celebrates the individual.
Lanvin presents its festive season collection for 2025. The theme centers on togetherness, celebrating the joy of giving and the warmth of close relationships.
Photographer Pierrot has turned his lens on Rumah Rubah, the Balinese home of Gildas Loaëc, co-founder of Maison Kitsuné.
Oakley is reissuing its iconic X-Metal Juliet sunglasses, a model personally selected by Travis Scott in his new role as the brand’s Chief Visionary.
The mudac museum in Lausanne has given Swiss designer Kévin Germanier a carte blanche for an exhibition titled “Les Monstrueuses.”
This range is designed with a focus on sustainability, as every piece is made from carefully selected leftover leathers and fabrics.
Levi’s has launched a T-shirt collection celebrating the hip-hop group De La Soul.
The brand, which produces artisanal olive oil and home goods, presented an installation at the inaugural Basic.Space NY event in SoHo.
Sónar 2026 has revealed the first part of its lineup, featuring over 100 shows.
The collection, led by Brazilian designer Pedro Andrade, revives pieces from Oakley’s historical archives through Piet’s experimental lens.
Perfume Genius’s new single “Me & Angel” feels like a glowing little world of its own, tender, dreamy, and strangely uplifting.
Moncler and JIL SANDER unveil their first collection together, crafted for Fall/Winter.
LOEWE Perfumes has partnered with the historic Madrid pastry shop, La Duquesita, for a special Christmas collaboration.
The collection revisits some of the brand’s earliest and most emblematic pieces. It is a tribute to the two pillars of their identity: Exclusive and Inclusive.
Stefano Tomadini photographed by Edgar Vazquez and styled by Victor Lopez, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Graphpaper from Tokyo and the Amsterdam label Camiel Fortgens have created an eight-piece capsule for Fall/Winter 2025.
Choclock has spent years redefining Spanish R&B and hip-hop, and his new EP Dame Más Tiempo marks another leap forward.
Discover the new Saint Laurent flagship on Avenue Montaigne, a refined, art-infused space that redefines modern luxury in the heart of Paris.
The third instalment of Canada Goose by Haider Ackermann elevates winterwear with bold minimalism and functional sophistication.
Weaving (literally) together activism, design, and queer culture, Grindr partnered with Rainbow Wool to present I Wool Survive on the runway in New York.
PUMA and ROMBAUT have released the second and final chapter of their collaboration.
Eastpak has released a new collection in its Movie Club series, this time inspired by the 1984 film Gremlins.
The Oakley Factory Team returns for Fall/Winter 2025 with a collection focused on technical experimentation.
The 17th FASHIONCLASH Festival filled three November days in Maastricht with performances, films, workshops and shows made by students, activists and designers from over 25 countries.
With over two decades of dedicated experience in the fashion industry, Andrea Moore has forged a distinctive path, blending vibrant colors and innovative materials into gender-neutral designs that resonate with today’s diverse audience.
Saint Laurent Rive Droite has introduced its first Advent calendar. The project is a unique vinyl box set curated by Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello.
Designer Gosha Rubchinskiy has relaunched his brand, opening a new chapter for the label.
Pull&Bear and French artist Thomas Lélu have released their second collaborative capsule, titled “Objets.”
For the first time, the partnership extends beyond bags to include apparel.
We headed down to Geneva over the weekend for the HEAD Fashion Show, made up of 23 Bachelor and 8 Master graduate collections offering a fresh, diverse, and contemplative reading of what clothing can be today.
