Christopher Raeburn FW17 Backstage!
by Laura Durechova
Influenced by the WW2 ghost army of Ellsworth Kelly, Christopher Ræburn’s FW17 features camouflage and deception from print, to shape to form.
The collection titled ‘Cut’N Shut’ showcased utilitarian military style garments that utilise the title quite literally. Ræburn favours function in a time of consumerist consumption, filling the runway with thick appliquéd duffle coats, khaki anorak jackets, grey woollen tracksuits, camouflage padded bomber jackets and lose fitting cropped trousers, many inspired by his remade, reduce, recycle ethos as he deconstructs and up-cycles parachutes and bomb disposal uniforms.
A palette of typical camouflage shades such as khaki, brown, granites and black are brought to life with less natural shades. Fluorescent blue and yellow punctuated the looks – a highlight being a patchwork soft grey and neon yellow knitted jumper, hat and scarf.
A regular for collaboration, Christopher Ræburn continues his relationship with Clarks shoes and Avery Dennison RBIS, as well as introducing Eastpack to his creations. Hefty fluorescent green and camouflage Eastpack backpacks completed the models outfits, ranging in shape from box form to a true emphasis of the theme of deception with chameleon shaped side bags.
Ultimately, Ræburn creates a visually stunning, ethically conscious and functional, unisex collection highlighting that fashion can both be aware and functional whilst also exciting.
Photos by Iolo Lewis Edwards for Fucking Young!
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