Burberry puts the kibosh on fashion’s old-fashioned formula: A real revolution or much ado about nothing?
by Yari Fiocca
Burberry SS16 Backstage by Portia Hunt
The breakthrough came last week from the checked British behemoth’s Christopher Bailey– the all-round Burberry lad- CEO and Chief Creative. All this was not supposed to be a tiptoe manoeuvre as not to wake the entire fashion reign, contrary, it was a bitch slap. Bailey’s mutiny is actually compelling the fashion system to rethink its policy and plan how to get by in today’s do-or-die critical climate- the second thing is disclosed subtly-. Burberry has announced a change to its runway and retail calendar and will show its womenswear and menswear conjointly twice a year- February and September, during London Fashion Week- and collections will be immediately available for sale. With the gender issue in an uproar these days, Burberry’s top dog combines business with a cultural (r)evolution. “The change we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collection themselves” says Bailey. Well, it sounds as a safe assumption more than a convincing one.
Money outweigh everything else- sorry, I did not find any other way to blurt out what lies beneath in my opinion!- In the last months of 2015 the brand-name has recorded the worst downward trend since 2012 with a loss of 12% and this comes as a financial expedient, mainly, not- as stated- to deliver a more genuine customer engagement- customers have already the stimulus and attention they deserve!-. Live streaming, tweets, comment-posting, hashtags are all tools that empower people- not pros in this specific case- to have an active involvement in the fashion industry. Even Tom Ford– who did decide to present his AW16 in September- is going to follow suit. “In a world that has become increasingly immediate, the current way of showing a collection four months before it is available to customers, is an antiquated idea and one that no longer makes sense. We have been living with a fashion calendar and system that is from another era” Ford himself revealed- I think we will survive- hey hey!- the four-month wait, Tom! But we appreciate the effort.
To delete two of the four runway shows means not only a sizeable saving- coordination and management of the events- but, combining it with a faster availability of the merchandise- producers immediately give the dummy to the mass market’s babies-, boosts a depressing way to envisage fashion emotionally. The Buy It Now trend- or trick?- is able to wipe out the peculiar features of fashion design: the emotional response to products, firstly. To make something accessible in a short while is like creating a product already debased, the wait gets emotions stronger. It’s a too rational fashion, shorn of its magic and incalculability but, these are the- new- rules of the game. Long live the disenchantment of the world! Who can blame it? This is capitalism after all.
FRED PERRY X NIGEL CABOURN
W.C. by Steve Marais
actual
Burberry puts the kibosh on fashion’s old-fashioned formula: A real revolution or much ado about nothing?
previous
FRED PERRY X NIGEL CABOURN
next
W.C. by Steve Marais
Just in time for Pride, Diesel has partnered with the Tom of Finland Foundation on a multi-part project.
The Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris, presents “Fugues in Color“, a new exhibition that brings together five international artists from different backgrounds and generations, including Sam Gilliam, Steven Parrino, Niele Toroni, Katharina Grosse and Megan Roone.
Katharina Grosse,… »
LOEWE presents the Pre-Fall 2022 campaign: a forceful work from a diverse creative community, photographed by Juergen Teller.
Sheep inc. joins forces with the knit edit to support trans, non-binary and gender diverse people by donating 100% of profits from their new collaboration to Mermaids, one of the UK’s… »
PHIPPS unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection titled “Origin 2.0”. The designer is moving to Los Angeles, his home state, and this is reflected in his new collection.
Salomon Pulsar Trail Pro shoe and Phantasm road shoe get the Ciele Athletics treatment with Vivid Colors and Animal Prints.
For its SS22 Denim campaign, Versace Jeans Couture draws inspiration from the playful patchworks and youthful, DIY spirit of the denim collection in a fun and colorful film and series of images.
“Rose 31”, as its name suggests, has been created from the rose of May.
This new BSK collection features Lil’ Koala, Lil’ Bunny and Lil’ Pig and consists of: clothing, footwear, accessories, dolls, augmented reality and even a video game.
For its introductory season, the 232 brand values campaign by ZEGNA includes musician Marracash, actor Isaac Hempstead Wright and movement director Yagamoto.
We met him in Rome on the exclusive set for Fucking Young! to talk about life, career, and future projects.
When looking for sunscreen my number one requirement is that it doesn’t clog pores. My second requirement is that it is as environmentally friendly as possible.
Designed by Gucci‘s Creative Director Alessandro Michele, adidas x Gucci blends the House’s emblems with the symbols of the iconic sportswear brand.
Tommy Hilfiger presents “Play it Forward,” his collaboration with Canadian singer-songwriter Shawn Mendes, to work together for a better future.
I know hundreds of men designing womenswear, but when it comes to women designing menswear, I can count them on both hands. I first became familiar with Gunther when their FW20 collection “No Sleep in Tokyo” caught… »
The collection embodies the essence of modern masculinity, both Korean and cosmopolitan.
Sustainable and socially conscious, that’s how we could describe the capsule with the artist.
Rupert Young is an English actor best known for his role as Sir Leon in the medieval fantasy fiction series, Merlin.
In addition to the physical platform, there will be the digital one as well which looks to be a permanent fixture.
Together they have designed a new spring 2022 collection focusing on both outerwear and wardrobe basics and characterized by an adventurous and exclusive touch.
Valentino unveiled its Fall 2022 campaign, starring singer Blanco photographed on the street by Michael Bailey-Gates in Arnold Circus, East London.
Dubbed “Vela Nera”, the Fila x Aries unisex collection combines an Italian approach to detailing with visual homages to the myth of Theseus and Minotaur.
We met Jeshi in Paris, in one of the most exciting streets, rue de Verbois, where the cultural and arty scene is being highlighted.
The world of fashion has changed and is constantly evolving, which is indisputable, but what has really moved towards a better place has been the social and environmental awareness that many of the brands that make up today’s market have… »
The emerging genderless brand caught our attention with its first collection SS22 presented at New York Fashion Week.
Pigmentarium, the perfume house showcasing a kaleidoscope of scents, just announced their GENESIS exposition, taking place at the “Centre tchèque de Paris” from May 12th to May 16th.
