Genuine, unpretentious and charming, Arthur Robert is part of a new generation of designers choosing to blend sartorial pragmatism with a flair for authenticity. When he launched OUEST Paris in 2022, Robert wasn’t aware of how positively his collection would be received. A breath of fresh air within the menswear landscape, Robert’s vision is uncontrived, precise and playful, putting a sense of sexiness and fun back into our wardrobes. Loïc Prigent was one of his early fans, and it seems that the rest of the press followed, wanting to know more about a collection that had edge and quality in terms of design, while remaining accessible and democratic when it came to pricing.
This week, OUEST Paris previewed its new collection at Pitti Uomo 105 in Florence, giving us the opportunity -and time- to catch up with Robert. In this exclusive interview, the talented French designer -who will stage a dynamic presentation during Paris Menswear next week- discusses his love of designer brands, why he always wanted to launch his own line, and how he found out Brad Pitt was one of his celebrity clients.
Was there a specific moment when you thought you’d have your own brand?
I guess it happened before graduating from fashion school. In a way, we were trained to think about doing our own line back then, and it’s something that truly never left me. When I arrived at AMI, the company was only 12 months old, and I ended up staying there for 7 years.
AMI grew rather quickly, and by the time you left the brand it had already taken off. Did it inspire you to do the same?
It was definitely key for me to watch how Alexandre’s brand was developing and I certainly learned from it. I had a great job and loved the team there, but after 7 years it felt like it was time for a change. I didn’t want to go to a big house either, because deep down I’ve always preferred smaller structures.
When did you leave AMI?
It was at the end of 2019, just before the pandemic started. As you can imagine, I had plenty of time to think in 2020 and started working on my own brand. I launched OUEST Paris in 2022.
How innocent -and unaware of the problems- were you when launching OUEST Paris?
It’s funny, because I thought I knew what most of the challenges were, but in the end you are never prepared for them.
You always seem to be in a good mood and this positive energy defines your clothes, too. How do you manage to stay so optimistic?
I tend to think about the gain and rewards first, as opposed to the difficulties that usually come beforehand.
Your brand has slightly changed its positioning this season, and it feels more ‘designer’ than ‘contemporary’ or ‘streetwear’. Can you explain why?
We realized that buyers -and clients- tended to gravitate towards the strongest and often most expensive pieces. They go for the statement pants, jackets or coats, as opposed to the simplest pieces. And our denim also has its own identity, which probably explains why it’s been doing well.
Were you always obsessed with designer fashion?
I grew up in Paris, but there was no one in my family loving fashion. I remember watching Mode 6 on French television and being fascinated with runway shows, as well as the work of certain designers. I had a friend whose parents were richer than mine and we used to shop for him together. Most of the time, I pushed him to buy stuff that I actually wanted for myself.
Was he straight?
Yes.
How Queer Eye of you! Did you already have an idea of how you wanted to dress men?
I loved jeans more than anything. When I was a student and got my first job, I remember using most of my salary to buy Rick Owens jeans, which for me were the ultimate in terms of fit and fashion. I was 18 at the time. Later, I also discovered the work of Martin Margiela and became obsessed with his pieces. When I was a teenager, fashion felt like a world I was excluded from. I was gay, had long hair and was bigger than my classmates. I wanted to wear skater stuff, but what turned me off about the elitism of fashion is also what attracted me to it.
How did you learn about fashion in your teens?
I was into all those chatrooms where people went on and on about designers they loved. I rarely read magazines. I bought Vogue on holiday, but it never left a strong impression on me.
Do you know how people discover OUEST Paris now?
Mainly through social media. We have a few friends who keep buying our clothes, too. We did a pop-up in Paris at the end of last year and Brad Pitt bought some pieces, which was rather unexpected.
What was he like?
Unfortunately, I didn’t meet him, but he walked into the pop-up with his girlfriend and knew exactly what he wanted.
It’s amazing that someone like him -who has access to all the major brands- would come to you specifically. It shows that many consumers are getting tired of mainstream brands and looking for new names in order to distinguish themselves.
It is quite exciting, I guess. We have a faithful clientele now, and it’s nice to see how people keep coming back for more. They love the clothes and feel good in them, which in the end is the most important thing.
What’s the Pitti Uomo experience been like for you this week?
We met several interested buyers and a lot of great international press. It’s good to be here to preview your work and we were also supported by the French Fédération, which definitely helped. We will do a presentation in Paris next week, and hope some of the press we met here will be attending it, too.
