Antonio Vattev’s FW20 Collection Embodies A Provocative Narrative Suffused With Poetry
by Chidozie Obasi































Schoolboy then, innovator now: Bulgarian-rooted Antonio Vattev is a know-how kid to keep on your #NewGen radar. Charting his experience in luxury Maisons such as Lanvin and Saint Laurent, the lead-up to his eponymous namesake label (upon his graduation from Saint Martins, London) was tense, no doubt, but the aftermath turned out pretty much mindblowing.
Now onto the clothes – Judy Blame’s work could be subtly spotlighted in Vattev’s key iterations, often epitomized by the usage of vintage-sourced garments and fabrics, alongside jewelry staples accessorized with found scraps. Construction, cinched-defined structure, and deconstruction brim propelling into a see-to-believe finishing dash that could feasibly revive a 1950s lapel or a maxi-pocketed shirt from the 1980s, bigging-up the sustainability conundrum. Utility trousers, razor-sharp tailoring, and boldness add-in range, too. Quite often, sleeve-power swings in: Intricacy and statement embroidery billow shapes and augment functionality. All in the name of innovation, nodding to his Bulgarian heritage.
Silhouettes allude to perceptions of Mick Jagger’s style, whilst patterns imbue the poetry of Georgia O’Keeffe’s iconic paintings.
In times where capitalizing on upcycling and ethical-sourcing never seems enough, it becomes fairly ubiquitous to make assumptions and scatter judgment (particularly when being sustainable in making warrants being sustainable in package-manufacturing, production, and what not) to a young wave of designers. Truth is, if not the youth – through modern technological advancement – who else can be more avant-garde and ethical other than them? It takes more than a savvy spirit to be part of this industry; it’s about the strategy one utilizes, patronized by a distinct sense of identity. Enough of the dreary stuff: Vattev challenges a provocative dynamic in his pieces, cherishing for the ever-coveted ‘buzz-phrase’ a.k.a ‘sustainability’ and plunging into codes that own a profound purposefulness. Indeed, purposefulness. His competence in making led to creating biproducts, approaching fashion from a dual-lens: Why only wearing a cotton tee once, if you can wear it where it twice and paired inversely? Precisely as I specified: it’s enticing and also mindblowing. A narrative permeated with meaningful garments that cross-reference rigor and romance.
Let’s not neglect the hyper-mindful brain behind it all, too: subversive and proactive, hybrids harness commercialism and utopia, brimming a duality that hovers between the ethereal and the worldly ever astonishingly.
Photos: Pablo Di Prima
Styling: Ib Kamara
Vitelli Fall/Winter 2020 Lookbook
Fashion Film Premiere: ALMA
actual
Antonio Vattev’s FW20 Collection Embodies A Provocative Narrative Suffused With Poetry
previous
Vitelli Fall/Winter 2020 Lookbook
next
Fashion Film Premiere: ALMA
Take a look at Who Decides War Spring/Summer 2026 backstage, captured by the lens of Spencer Stovell during New York Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Nike and Air Afrique, a creative collective from Paris, have created a new shoe. It is called the Air Max RK61.
Salomon’s new Road Trip capsule looks both ways. It draws from the brand’s own history while making sure every detail is suited for the present.
MM6 Maison Margiela has partnered with Agnelle, a French glove maker with a history stretching back to 1937.
COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus and Nike introduce a new collaborative sneaker, the Air Rejuven8.
For Spring/Summer 2026, Palomo returned to Madrid. The setting was The Palace Hotel, an intimate presentation that marked a homecoming after several seasons in New York.
Smith will lead the creation of four collections each year, covering men’s shoes, leather goods, and accessories.
Gucci introduces a new sneaker, the Gucci Shift, designed for motion. It translates the House’s athletic history into a form made for the rhythm of now.
Setchu Perfume is a collection of five fragrances, each continuing the brand’s search for balance, joy, and strength.
Deep in the hills of Abruzzo, at a place called Villaggio Cirulli, a simple but powerful idea took shape: no one is just a number.
Take a look at Campillo’s Spring/Summer 2026 backstage, captured by the lens of Spencer Stovell during New York Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
FANG NYC made its New York Fashion Week debut with a Spring/Summer 2026 collection that drew a clear line from the past to a specific future.
Valentino Garavani and Vans unveiled the campaign images for its new collaboration.
ECKHAUS LATTA unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection during New York Fashion Week.
Ami Paris has unveiled a new staple for the wardrobe: the Mirage sneaker.
Peter Demas photographed by Chris Fucile, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
In an age of digital noise, there’s something powerful about work made by hand. Artist Sal Salandra understands this.
LeBlancStudios presents its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Museum of Common Oddities.”
Drawing from the energy of Tokyo’s streetwear, the collection captures the creative pulse of Shibuya.
Dsquared2 and Ducati have joined forces for the first time. The reason is a machine: the new Ducati XDiavel V4 motorcycle.
A shoe should feel good from the first step. That’s the idea behind Camper’s new unisex sneaker, the Karst 2.
The offering is relaxed yet polished. It includes rugby shirts, lightweight shell jackets, and everyday T-shirts that speak to the brand’s modern-prep influences.
Photographed by Juergen Teller and styled by Jodie Barnes, the campaign features models Alex Consani and Leon Dame.
The message is an invitation. It’s a call to “cum” together, to join what they playfully term the “Carne Cummunity.”
SOLID HOMME applies its own clean, specific point of view to the iconic MA-1 flight jacket from Alpha Industries.
Balenciaga just unveiled a collection of ten fragrances. This launch moves beyond traditional perfumery, built instead on fusion and tension.
Dior has unveiled a new bag for the Winter 2025-2026 collection: the Dior Slider hobo.
A store should feel like it belongs. That’s the idea behind the newly reopened Camper flagship on Madrid’s Calle de Serrano.
Desigual introduced its new premium line, Desigual Studio, with a fashion show in Barcelona last night.
We caught up with Parcels in Paris to learn more about their new album.