A pragmatist aesthetics peeps out at Men’s Milan Fashion Week SS23
by Yari Fiocca
If not entirely free from the dry formulations and superficiality of recent years, fashion in Milan seems to be the outcome of a thought hanging on the modern living’s occurrences. As human beings who are about to reconnect with what we have left behind due to worrisome events, there is a need for clothes that can fully represent positive moods and a society that wants to live again; that embody vibrant emotions to which we can lend a body.
Many collections were thinly designed and threw out some generic ideas – they lacked constructive provocation and clothes were just too vulnerable in their aesthetics and message -, but others stood out for being painted in broader strokes, and for generously coping with the global market’s requirements without missing the mark on evocation. Some designers partially abandoned their role of creators and turned ‘matière a penser’ to investigate and affirm the value of feeling when dealing with the bodily experience of things.
What was interesting this season was a certain disposition, albeit veiled, to understand fashion as a Humanwissenschaft, a human science, and to put clothes within an emotional environment, and no longer consider them as coercive instruments; because a dress as a simple product, and not as a ‘sentient object’, doesn’t have the power to remain relevant for too long.
1017 Alyx 9SM
Etro
Federico Cina
Fendi
JW Anderson
Moschino
MSGM
Prada
Versace
Zegna
TAKING OFF: Aries SS23
LOVERBOY Spring/Summer 2023
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A pragmatist aesthetics peeps out at Men’s Milan Fashion Week SS23
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TAKING OFF: Aries SS23
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LOVERBOY Spring/Summer 2023
Inspired by the androgynous beauty and seductive allure of American actor Joe Dallessandro, Valette Studio’s new collection is an ode to sartorial freedom and emancipation, underlining playfulness and personality as opposed to stereotypes, rules and uniformity.
DAVID TLALE SS23 collection includes adaptions of feminine features into the “male” silhouette, offering textures commonly associated with womenswear.
Craig Green’s men have identified a distant new summit to ascend, obscured far from view, but somehow ever present.
For the SS23 studio collection, Henrik Vibskov investigates the elements of bridges – a construction born from the hands of humans, allowing the feet to touch where only birds used to inhabit.
SANKUANZ SS23 continues the speculative exploration of life and death from its last season, realizing deep integration of street style and high fashion in multiple ways.
For this collection, Ernest W. Baker wanted to reference Spring 2020: something familiar and comfortable, the sense of innocence, naivety – an impression of sheltering.
Through this men’s line, Kim has endeavored to explore the importance of private spheres and how they provide inspiration and guidance in the realm of creativity.
Davi revives the tradition and gives its contemporary traveler that modern and lively twist that pervades the collections designed by Davide Marello.
Take a look at Dior Men Spring/Summer 2023 backstage, captured by the lens of Cole Fawcett during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Colm Dillane staged his newest collection with a performance-art piece that merged fashion, art, and audience participation.
young n sang unveiled the lookbook for its “Merman” collection, captured by the lens of Choi Na Rang.
For the SS23 collection and Kaczmarek’s fourth collection for the brand, the designer continues to take his inspiration from the world of the Parisian city.
The Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection of Acne Studios celebrates the joy of dressing up with a hint of subversion, skewing traditional formal dress codes for a modern, idiosyncratic take on occasionwear.
This season Ouest Paris dreams of Californian beaches, warm nights and space travel.
Inspired by a day spent gallery hopping around London on the hottest day of the year, Paul Smith’s SS23 men’s presentation in Paris revisits the 1980s art scene to offer a refined take on classic menswear silhouettes.
Simultaneously introducing two things that contradict each other as an homage to the duality of the whole; an embrace of the paradox.
The collection itself was conceived and created by the Louis Vuitton Prêt-à-Porter Homme studio: a constantly evolving ecosystem of creative minds who shared long working days since 2018 with Virgil Abloh and expanded during his eight seasons of artistic direction.
Honor The Gift’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection redefines workwear inspired by the imprint of overlooked Black Labor of the 1800s.
On Thursday, June 23, Rick Owens showcased his SS23 collection, “Edfu,” after the Egyptian temple.
Givenchy unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week.
The collection features curved and straight folds in the uniformly pleated fabric, finished with twisting and layering garment constructions.
The collection is a reaction to recent times. A contribution to the growing call to embrace connection – to lean into openness.
