University time, despite the long seasons full of deliveries and hours of study, is often remembered with fondness and a smile by most who go through it, and the trio formed by Sans, Nicolas and Zen would agree, as it was the period in which they decided to create UNTITLAB®, the brand specialising in footwear and accessories that every lover of the niche and unpopular has had on their radar for some time.
Characterised by its bold and strong image due to its visuals, the brand founded in Shanghai and based in London is considered to be one of the most avant-garde of the moment but also one of those that contributes the most to the development of a sustainable world, as every one of its designs are developed with vegan and recycled materials.
About all this and more, we had the pleasure of talking to the brand’s creative team, Sans and Nicolas. Find out everything they told us below:
Guys, thanks for being here! Let’s start this interview by saying that, from our point of view, if something is interesting or exciting in the fashion industry today, it is the niche or unpopular. Such adjectives could be attributed to UNTITLAB®, the brand you two and Zen founded and are currently working on. How did you start this journey?
Sans: You’re welcome, and thanks for the support! The start of Untitlab® was very organic. At the time, we were all working for different companies, and we thought it would be great to do something together. I design the shoes, Nicolas is in charge of the images and art direction, and Zen focuses on management and marketing.
Nicolas: Right. I met Sans and Zen at university. After the graduation, we had a conversation about doing something bold and different in the fashion & creative field. Then we started everything from the footwear.
The company is focused on footwear and accessories. Do you think the fact of specialising in certain fields can make it more complex or difficult to run?
Sans: Starting your brand, no matter the field, is always challenging. We were lucky because 2019 in Shanghai was a period of rapid growth in the market. However, focusing specifically on shoes made sense for the market we were entering.
Nicolas: Quite on the contrary, I think the very specific category makes everything clearer and easier to focus on what we want to express.
Shoe fetishism has always been present in society, but in recent years it has become more visible. Are they for you?
Sans: Yes, they’re definitely sexy.
Nicolas: Definitely, especially when creating images; it’s always the core of the concept.
What does a shoe have to have for you to say it’s good? And, could you tell us any shoe brand that is a reference for you?
Sans: When I was younger, I might have said something more extravagant and bold, but now, as I’ve grown, I think comfort and significance are what make a good shoe.
I love Abra’s shoes.
Relating to the pretext with which we started the interview, do you prefer the brand to remain a bit hidden/unknown/niche, or would you like it to become more popular?
Sans: We do want the brand to become more popular and wearable, with daily options for a broader audience. However, we also want to continue creating niche shoes and images. We plan to launch a custom shoe service for customers who want something special.
Nicolas: It’s always about keeping the balance. I think we have the potential to step into a wider world, but at the same time, you will have to compromise a bit to achieve that. And I’m so familiar with the process of jumping around the algorithm to post something queer contents on Meta and got shadow banned.
Nicolas, you just mentioned the Queer community. How important is this for you and your team when designing?
Nicolas: I think this is where I feel I belong, and it’s crucial to reflect on that. We’re always having conversations about what kind of people we’re designing the shoes for.
Sans: All three of us are queer, and we draw a lot of inspiration from our queer friends and how they express themselves through fashion. I always tell my friends that a specific shoe has their name on it.
And, when it comes to creating visuals?
Sans: It’s all about freedom and inspiration. Our visuals reflect that same openness.
Nicolas: Creating visuals is the most intense part for me, and organising events and bringing together friends are always so much fun as well. Working with different artists from the queer community inspires me a lot to how to navigate through concepts and find the meeting points in between.
Often, people talk about the classism that still exists in the fashion industry. Do you think that brands with a more daring image are taken less seriously?
Sans: Fashion has a wide variety of styles and opinions, but for us, the most important thing is to respect other creatives and their vision.
Nicolas: I would say the world has become more conservative nowadays, and yet the classism is still present. I think it’s our mission to break certain boundaries, and I feel excited and alive doing so. That’s why I love the queer community and the community we’ve created, they constantly encourage and inspire me.
Let’s move on now to design, where you always go beyond and reimagine men’s footwear. How do you see the current state of men’s fashion? In our opinion, it’s booming, as it seems that there is no longer any fear in designing.
Sans: Menswear is definitely evolving! More brands are embracing gender-neutral shoes, which is an exciting shift.
Sans: Our AW25 collection continues to explore the themes of comfort, lightness, and freedom. This season, we’ve updated the Swift Trek series with a new silhouette inspired by ballerinas and vintage boots, striking a balance between sportiness and sophistication. We’ve also collaborated with LUIS DE JAVIER to create sculptural high heels that explore the intersection of structure and strength. untitlab® aims to redefine footwear, creating pieces that empower wearers to feel free and strong, no matter where they go.
If we talk about design, London is one of the cities that stands out the most for it and coincidentally, where you presented the Fall/Winter 2025 collection. What is the idea/inspiration behind it?
Sans: Our AW25 collection continues to explore the themes of comfort, lightness, and freedom. This season, we’ve updated the Swift Trek series with a new silhouette inspired by ballerinas and vintage boots, striking a balance between sportiness and sophistication. We’ve also collaborated with LUIS DE JAVIER to create sculptural high heels that explore the intersection of structure and strength. untitlab® aims to redefine footwear, creating pieces that empower wearers to feel free and strong, no matter where they go.
Do you have a favourite of all those that make it up?
Sans: I really love the Swift Trek Ballerina.
Nicolas: The UN Malar heels in collaboration with LDJ.
Sustainability is present in all your designs and it is also one of the reasons why they stand out…
Sans: Yes. It’s crucial for us to create products that are sustainable and have a minimal impact on the environment.
What are the materials you use to produce them with?
Sans: All of our materials are VEGAN. We’ve developed some of our own innovative microfiber materials, and we also use bio-based suede, which is not only durable but of high quality.
Is it still difficult to find vegan or sustainable materials?
Sans: Vegan materials are relatively easy to find, but sustainable materials can be harder to come by. We can’t claim that all our materials and accessories are 100% sustainable, but we try our best.
For a while now, we have been hearing about a sustainable world. Would you say there has been any progress or change?
Sans: More and more brands are focusing on sustainable materials, but balancing sustainability with financial viability remains a challenge. I don’t think the fashion industry as a whole is fully committed to sustainability yet.
The future is unpredictable, but do you see a better world ahead? Not only in terms of sustainability, but in general.
Sans: Absolutely. I believe things will improve, especially as more customers become conscious of sustainability. People are increasingly interested in customization and knowing more about the products they buy, not just the looks. This shift in consumer interest is fundamental.
Nicolas: Traveling among cities for fashion weeks makes me feel people are still curious to see new things and believe in creativity. There are so many challenges in the world, and we still need to fight.
Concluding this talk, any advice you have been told that you would like to share, or that is your own, for those who want to start a business but do not yet dare to do so.
Sans: I’d say it’s never too late. Just do it — stop overthinking and get started.
Nicolas: Trust your intuition and seize the opportunity.
