After graduating from “Istituto Marangoni”, Matteo Lamandini worked for MSGM and Marni.
In 2014, he won Peek & Cloppenburg’s fashion talent award “Designer for Tomorrow”, gaining the opportunity of visiting Tommy Hilfiger Corporate Headquarters and collaborating with the brand. Shortly afterwards, Lamandini moved to Berlin where he designed and produced his first collection (that was shown during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin).
MATTEOLAMANDINI FW16 Menswear Collection is going to be presented at “Pitti Uomo”.
Fucking Young!: You spent two months in Amsterdam, working on a collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger. What did you learn from this experience?
Matteo Lamandini: I had a great experience, working with the “European Menswear Team”. Above all, I learned to combine my vision with Tommy Hilfiger’s approach to fashion (which is quite different from my personal expression). Furthermore, I had the opportunity to come in contact with new working methods (I had never worked for such a large company before).
FY!: What pushed you to take the plunge and launch your own brand? What can you tell us about the early stages?
ML: The victory, the victory in the competition. Actually, it’s always been a desire of mine. They gave me a chance and I believed in it. A long but satisfying journey awaits.
FY!: How would you define your aesthetic ethos?
ML: I think my style could be identified with formal wear. I always start off with a classic silhouette and I end up playing with the fit, in order to make it suitable for a young audience.
FY!: Do you use fashion as a means of communication? What message are you trying to convey through your garments?
ML: Yes, indeed. I’m interested in introducing youngsters to the rediscovery of the past and irony plays a vital role in the process.
FY!: Who is your ideal customer?
ML: I think my ideal customer is a young man (between 25 and 35 years old).
FY!: Let’s focus on your SS16 Menswear Collection, “Tristesse Contemporaine”: could you take us through the key pieces?
ML: “Tristesse Contemporaine” is born of direct observation of a disheartened society. The colour palette –black, blue, grey and white– is mainly dark. The present circumstances are defused by the figure of the child. The fabric selection reminds me of the dimension of play and life. “Tristesse Contemporaine” is built on contrasts. The most representative pieces of the collection are the double fabric blazers and the suspender pants.
FY!: The fabric choise was influenced by Barnett Newman’s Abstract Expressionism: what’s your relationship with art?
ML: I think it’s a key element: I always combine my own conceptions with art, in order to create the right concoction.
FY!: Do you think fashion should be about comfort nowadays? Is the concept of “season” still relevant?
ML: Everyone looks for comfort (this concept is open to different interpretations); It’s very important to infuse style with comfort. As regards the second question, the idea of “season” doesn’t exist anymore: it’s a mere formality.
FY!: Has image overtaken talent in our society?
ML: Yes, I’m afraid so. Aesthetic appearance allows individuals to be whoever they wish to be or belong to “distant realities”, but it’s destined to decay. Talent can’t be bought. I’m aware of the growing relevance of this phenomenon and I think being yourself will eventually pay off.
FY!: What are you working on now? Could you give us an exclusive sneak peek into your FW16 Menswear Collection?
ML: At the present time, I’m working on the FW16 Menswear Collection, which is inspired by “War of the Buttons”. I wish to create a youthful image, merging “far but close” worlds together.
FY!: Is there a move on the horizon? Do you feel the need of a new scenario?
ML: I established “MATTEOLAMANDINI” in Italy. Therefore, I’ll stay here for a while. I can’t rule out a future move, though.
FY!: As usual, the final question: what’s today really FUCKING YOUNG!?
ML: To bring a timeless piece back into fashion.