Duran Lantink’s first collection for Jean Paul Gaultier is called “JUNIOR.”

For this ready-to-wear collection, Lantink relied on his gut feeling for what the house means now: fun, energetic, and alive. His process, which he calls “Duranification,” involves making, fitting, and twisting pieces until creations magically happen or naturally disappear.

The collection is built on distorting the familiar. The voices of the founder and his successor meet. Classic marinière stripes become optical illusions. Shapes are played with, making skirts fly and shoulders vanish. The result is both a resurrection of Gaultier’s ready-to-wear and an extension of Lantink’s own style.

Lantink says he doesn’t use moodboards, but one reference was key: a book on Amsterdam’s legendary RoXY club, a place of sweaty, careless style that defined an era. The spirit of the American poet John Giorno also served as a meditative soundtrack for the designer and for the show itself.

The collection was presented in the basement of the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris. Lantink likens the feeling to catching the scent of a perfume on your pillow, a giddy reminder of the night before.

Check it out below: