Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2026
by Anna Barr
Ann Demeulemeester is known for creating a strong contrast between structure and softness, but for Spring/Summer 2026, it was the softer side that came out. Punk and gothic influences were muted on low, allowing the brooding elegance to come forward. Jenna Ortega, Demi Lovato, Jack White, Erika Linder, Ty Dolla $ign, Corey Fogelmanis, Loren, joined a gathering of artists and underground creatives at the historic Réfectoire des Cordeliers in Paris as Creative Director Stefano Gallici “The Solitary One: A Love Story in Rebellion.”
Aimée Nash and Gabe Van’s live performance opened the show with their eerie soundtrack establishing the mood for the collection, which alternated between constraint and abandon. “I always favored the ones who took the long road. I did so when reading, too, choosing the literary heroes and antiheroes who spoke to me: the romantics, the lovers, no matter the era. I still do. Today, Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice and Danny Sugerman’s Wonderland Avenue feel to me like two halves of the same sentiment. One dressed in lace and social customs, the other in leather and addictions, both telling tales about people trying to love without destroying each other, or themselves. These books are in this collection, together with my basketball shorts, in a quiet tension of classic romance and 1970s rebellion which reimagines the love stories of Darcy and Elizabeth from Pride and Prejudice, and Danny and Tiffany from Wonderland Avenue, casting them as muses together with the Prince of LSU, Pistol Pete Maravich, a dreamer and genius whose flamboyant energy transformed basketball into art.” Gallic stated in the show notes.
Romantic tailoring collided with athletic codes, creating a tension between grace and grit. The palette shifted from black-on-black to officer red, dusty rose brocade, and washed whites layered over raw denim, tones that evoked nostalgia, rivalry, and romance. Accessories nodded to both court and countryside, with headbands, feathers, vintage socks, and loosely tied laces completing the poetic disorder that felt like Jim Morrison running off with a flower child into the night.
Check it out below:
CREDITS
Creative Director: Stefano Gallici
Styling: Elodie David Touboul
Hair: Anthony Turner
Make Up: Inge Grognard
Casting: Ben Grimes
Music: Aimee L. Nash / Daughter Minotaur
Produced by Aimee L. Nash / Daughter Minotaur & Gabe Van
Production: Urban Production
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