The Polimoda Graduate Show 2025 kicked off Pitti Uomo’s 108th edition, presenting twenty collections from emerging designers shaped by personal histories and material experimentation. Over one hundred looks passed along the runway, each reflecting the distinct perspective of its creator, some rooted in cultural memory, others in formal innovation, all developed through Polimoda’s four-year program under the guidance of Massimiliano Giornetti, An Vandevorst, and Tim Blanks.

The work avoided predictable references, instead proposing new approaches to form and narrative. Elena Azeglio’s Italian collection reconstructed protective garments from military parachuting and samurai equipment, while Naomi Guzman Doran, drawing from Mexican, Japanese, and Malaysian traditions, combined coming-of-age ceremonies into layered hybrid garments. Keila Melany Mirmina’s Argentine presentation traced the journey of a rural laborer confronting urban hierarchies, and Eseniia Rybnikova’s Russian designs imposed geometric structures on everyday clothing, suggesting tensions between order and disorder. Childhood recollections surfaced in Chloe Geyer’s South African collection, where forest memories translated into textured, voluminous shapes, while Amina Vanneling’s Swedish-Iranian work documented the accidental intimacy of strangers sharing shelter from rain.

Check out the menswear looks below:

Nansen Capici

Amina Vanneling

Samuele Pampaloni

Sofia Sapena

Veronica Bezzeccheri

Leonardo Iori

Elena Azeglio

Filippo Montanini

Keila Melany Mirmina

Mandula Maczkó

Isabella Valdez