Everything good is long overdue. Just this weekend it was a year since the British-Jamaican designer MARTINE ROSE – Founder and Creative Director of her eponymous brand – had held a show. Officially, she is back on the runways, not in Milan but in London. The expectation in the capital and practically the whole world was more than served and consequently the date was marked in the calendar of the fashion editors and the thousands of followers that Mrs. Rose gathers.

Martine is currently considered to be one of the most transgressive and avant-garde in her category, and in the latest revelation of her work she has once again made this evident. The almost 30 menswear looks that made it up were shown little by little in an abandoned employment office, suddenly turned into a living room decorated with cascading curtains and park floors, by characters belonging to her world, characterised as always by their respective hair and make-up. The hair, at times, seemed to come out of the baseball caps that some of them were wearing, an indispensable accessory in MR, as well as the Nike Shox MR4, which have already become an article of desire, since the show introduced a new colour of the model that reaches and exceeds 1,000 euros/pounds/dollars on any resale website.

Continuing with the introductions, it should be noted that until now the brand’s men’s looks have always been characterised by being strictly masculine, but this time they have gone further and played with the feminine as well, thus adding a sensual touch to the looks; see for example look 9 or 31 where they combine oversized tailoring/coats or t-shirts/shirts with extra short satin trousers with lace finishes, reminiscent of sexy women’s pyjamas. Satin or not, Martine wants men to lose their fear of such trousers and show off their legs next Spring/Summer 2026 season. And, for those who are more shy than usual, she offers the possibility to combine them with knee-high socks and her iconic square-toed leather loafers in different colours.

Bringing leather into the review, there were also a range of jackets and trousers of uncomfortably slim proportions, and bags with a carved effect, related to those bought by British tourists in the markets of Spain, and which finish off the looks successfully with other accessories such as socks attached to trousers, bags covered in T-shirts or scarves with classified ads from vintage adult magazines.

SS26 by MARTINE ROSE is a collection that trades the available for the suggestive and pays homage to the people who keep London’s high streets alive. What a return to the runways Martine has made and how lucky we are to have her back!

Have a look at the line below: