Men’s fashion month has officially begun and this year the one in charge of kicking it off has been MM6 Maison Margiela, the young line of the Belgian-born fashion house based in Paris and guest designer at the latest edition of Pitti Uomo, held as usual in Florence (Italy).

From the moment the news leapt into the public domain, the expectation of seeing what the firm’s design team had prepared for the occasion grew like wildfire, as the collection that would be seen months later would be the first to be 100% menswear. Although this was not fulfilled, as on the catwalk located in the shiny glass palace inside the Giardino dell’Orticoltura – the location chosen for the show – some women’s looks could be seen, it is true that in comparison with the previous line presented at Milan Fashion Week, a greater complexity could be seen, in terms of design and fabrics.

In the Fall/Winter 2025 proposal, inspired partly by Miles Davis, of course, there was tailoring, reimagined in the style of MM6, where black and mystery were especially predominant, merging successfully and becoming one, while at the same time taking over the classic style clothes and turning them into others of absolute avant-garde, such as well structured coats in the shoulder and lapel area, suits with jacket and trousers, or shirts. This neutral tone evolved into what many consider to be the colour of the season, burgundy, making its most notable appearance in a perfect synthetic leather coat in a futuristic aesthetic, accompanied by a matching blazer and a worn lurex jumper in the same shade, and in a biker-style jacket, made in a patchwork, in which in addition to synthetic leather there were patches of nylon in brown; another of the colours that made up the chosen palette and therefore was used in some of the suits and other garments, designed as usual to be worn and enjoyed both in daily life and in the most sensual evenings.

The finishing or shining touch to MM6 Maison Margiela’s latest work was provided by the two smoking suits that shone like there was no tomorrow and the accessories, especially the modular gloves in collaboration with Agnelle that almost unwittingly got most of the attention, the “spazzolato” moccasins with square or round toes as a nod to tradition, or the trumpet bags and biker bags, among others.

Successfully, the first show of 2025 has already taken place. Now the rest can follow. Have a look at the collection below: