untitlab® SS25: Abyss
by Anna Barr
untitlab® presented their Spring(Summer 2025 collection with a performance “Abyss” during London Fashion Week. The art performance choreographed by Lewis Walker, involved three dancers modeling the new collection while suspended in the air and blasted with water, leaving the audience feeling a variety of emotions.
This performance uses Georges Bataille’s description from Erotism: Death and Sensuality as an overview:
“How sweet it is to gaze long upon the object of our desire, to live on in our desire, instead of dying by going the whole way, by yielding to the excessive violence of desire! We know that possession of the object we are afire for is out of the question. It is one thing or another: either desire will consume us entirely, or its object will cease to fire us with longing. We can possess it on one condition only, that gradually the desire it arouses will fade. Better for desire to die than for us to die, though! We can make do with an illusion. If we possess its object we shall seem to achieve our desire without dying. Not only do we renounce death, but also we let our desire, really the desire to die, lay hold of its object and we keep it while we live on. We enrich our life instead of losing it.”
Untitlab created the fantasy shoe closet for girls and gays this season, featuring chunky inflatable overknee boots, size 44 stilettos, and motorcycle-inspired high heels boots. This season also sees Untitlab teamed with Cloudwool, a British eco-friendly wool business, to create mule packs and slip-ons, and HILOS Studio to create entirely recyclable 3D-printed shoes, pushing the boundaries of innovative workmanship. If you are LGBTQ+ or ally, had a Brat summer, and enjoy hot shoes, then this collection is for you.
Check out the images from the performance below:
Imagery by William Darby and Yiling Zhao
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