Burberry puts the kibosh on fashion’s old-fashioned formula: A real revolution or much ado about nothing?
by Yari Fiocca
Burberry SS16 Backstage by Portia Hunt
The breakthrough came last week from the checked British behemoth’s Christopher Bailey– the all-round Burberry lad- CEO and Chief Creative. All this was not supposed to be a tiptoe manoeuvre as not to wake the entire fashion reign, contrary, it was a bitch slap. Bailey’s mutiny is actually compelling the fashion system to rethink its policy and plan how to get by in today’s do-or-die critical climate- the second thing is disclosed subtly-. Burberry has announced a change to its runway and retail calendar and will show its womenswear and menswear conjointly twice a year- February and September, during London Fashion Week- and collections will be immediately available for sale. With the gender issue in an uproar these days, Burberry’s top dog combines business with a cultural (r)evolution. “The change we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collection themselves” says Bailey. Well, it sounds as a safe assumption more than a convincing one.
Money outweigh everything else- sorry, I did not find any other way to blurt out what lies beneath in my opinion!- In the last months of 2015 the brand-name has recorded the worst downward trend since 2012 with a loss of 12% and this comes as a financial expedient, mainly, not- as stated- to deliver a more genuine customer engagement- customers have already the stimulus and attention they deserve!-. Live streaming, tweets, comment-posting, hashtags are all tools that empower people- not pros in this specific case- to have an active involvement in the fashion industry. Even Tom Ford– who did decide to present his AW16 in September- is going to follow suit. “In a world that has become increasingly immediate, the current way of showing a collection four months before it is available to customers, is an antiquated idea and one that no longer makes sense. We have been living with a fashion calendar and system that is from another era” Ford himself revealed- I think we will survive- hey hey!- the four-month wait, Tom! But we appreciate the effort.
To delete two of the four runway shows means not only a sizeable saving- coordination and management of the events- but, combining it with a faster availability of the merchandise- producers immediately give the dummy to the mass market’s babies-, boosts a depressing way to envisage fashion emotionally. The Buy It Now trend- or trick?- is able to wipe out the peculiar features of fashion design: the emotional response to products, firstly. To make something accessible in a short while is like creating a product already debased, the wait gets emotions stronger. It’s a too rational fashion, shorn of its magic and incalculability but, these are the- new- rules of the game. Long live the disenchantment of the world! Who can blame it? This is capitalism after all.
FRED PERRY X NIGEL CABOURN
W.C. by Steve Marais
actual
Burberry puts the kibosh on fashion’s old-fashioned formula: A real revolution or much ado about nothing?
previous
FRED PERRY X NIGEL CABOURN
next
W.C. by Steve Marais
Jacquemus’ new campaign, La Croisière, takes us on a quiet escape along the Nile.
Summer just got brighter. MR PORTER just dropped the new LOEWE x Paula’s Ibiza HS25 capsule, a collection that feels like a never-ending vacation.
Kirill Karpenko photographed by Igor Vavilov and art-directed by Daniil K, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
French fashion house CELINE joins the Osaka-Kansai 2025 World Expo with its temporary exhibition “CELINE MAKI-E”.
Temple of Love marks Palais Galliera’s first exhibition in Paris devoted to the work of avant-garde fashion designer and cult figure Rick Owens.
NBA star Jaylen Brown’s brand, 7uice, has teamed up with NAMESAKE for a new capsule collection called INTELLECTUAL CLUB.
A confirmation that many of us have been waiting for.
Dominic Albano started with luxury underwear—simple, sexy, and well-made. Now, he’s bringing that same vibe to swimwear.
Balenciaga unveiled its new High Summer campaign, shot by Roe Ethridge.
Prada’s Days of Summer campaign feels like a pause, a deep breath of salt air.
In the haze of golden hour and the soft chaos that is Coachella’s opening weekend, GUESS JEANS made its triumphant return to the desert — and let’s just say, it didn’t come quietly. For the fourth year… »
The Limit Does Not Exist was a collision of clothes, music, and performance, all vibrating at the same frequency.
For the first time, Converse and Kenzo are joining forces, mixing classic American cool with Kenzo’s vibrant energy.
This season marks a shift toward sharper structure and technical precision, but without losing the experimental edge that defines the label.
Lick the Star is a film, a feeling, a love letter to the way pop culture lingers—half memory, half dream. And like Room 79 itself, it lingers long after you’ve left.
Indelicato revisits shapes and styles that matter to him, turning them into something almost ritualistic.
Paris has long been the backdrop for romance, and now two brands are bringing that intimacy from the city’s streets straight to the bedroom.
Designed by Johnny Lu and printed on Munken paper, the book is a deep dive into what makes Aries stand out.
Dutch designer Duran Lantink becomes the new Creative Director of French fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier.
MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon are back with another collaboration, this time for SS25.
Unlike traditional grants or one-off prizes, this is a comprehensive two-year accelerator that provides runway production, mentorship, retail access, and a high-profile collaboration to set designers up for long-term success.
Dominik Dorner captured by the lens of Santiago Neyra, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
With a year full of surprises, the renowned French streetwear brand Bensimon is celebrating its 45th Anniversary.
In an era of disposable fashion, JAK sneakers offer something different: understated quality that lasts.
Cities change, and so do the people who live in them. wetheknot’s new seasonal capsule, Goodbye Lisbon, is built on that tension—between the city we know and the one we hope to see.
Real magic happens with Primavera a la Ciutat, the week-long spillover of concerts taking over the city’s best venues—and the schedule just dropped.
Lejs Ibrahimovic styled himself for this exclusive Fucking Young! story captured by the lens of Julian Freyberg.
Summer isn’t just a season—it’s a feeling. That’s the idea behind LOEWE’s Paula’s Ibiza 2025 collection.
Curated by F. Delétrain, the project blurred the line between joke and critique.
“UNDERSEX” is a photo project of the non-existent association “FAUX”. It is dedicated to artists in emigration from different countries and is designed to resemble a provincial Siberian newspaper, contrasting with erotic visuals, as this theme is still taboo in Russia and Eastern countries.
