Matthew M Williams, founder and creative director of 1017 ALYX 9SM, returns to Milan Fashion Week to present his Spring/Summer 24 collection and consequently offer us a better and more complex version of himself than his previous work.

Via Privata Ventura number 14 was the place chosen to unveil the new proposal of the American, who, to liven up the wait until the start of the show, offered refreshing drinks to combat the infernal heat and humidity of Milan, nothing comparable to that experienced in the previous edition. The space seemed to be almost tailor-made to match the line, as the predominant colours were white and beige, which sometimes turned grey if the light fell on them. These three colours, with the permission of black and brown, played an important role in the show, as Matthew used them in numerous looks, some of them effortless but with a certain raw, rebellious touch that suggested they could be worn any day of the week and with robust, thick-soled boots in black or brown with a distressed effect, which also matched the tone of the wood on the floor of the space.

The distressed effect is something that, as we have seen in several previous collections, Williams is very fond of, as is the treatment of canvas, a material present in several garments. Each and every one has been meticulously cared for and the desired effect has been achieved, with a distinctive texture and lived-in appeal adding depth and character to the ensemble, some of which consists of trousers, waistcoats, coats, and jackets that exude an aura of rough sophistication and street style.

Leather is another of the designer’s fetish materials. MMW loves to treat this fabric and it shows. No other designer manages to exude such elegance through this fabric, used in bomber jackets, waistcoats, and shorts with pockets, as well as a range of bags and backpacks that exhibit exquisite craftsmanship and unique processing specialities.

Now the question arises, what does it mean to you to be unique? Because for us something unique is something that only you possess or know how to make yourself, and could even be considered unrepeatable. This feature is present in several garments of ALYX SS24, especially in one of them, which is the grey metallic knitted jumper made with the technique of intarsia, a masterful art that interweaves different threads to form patterns.

This was the show-closing piece that caught the eye of many in attendance, but an item that did the same as the “derby” shoe, which embodies a harmonious blend of bold aesthetics and superior functionality, thus embodying the company’s unwavering pursuit of innovative design at every step.

Check out the 1017 ALYX 9SM Spring/Summer 24 collection below: