33 designers. 24 moments split between presentations, talks, and runway shows (both digital and physical). This is what we found on this edition of ModaLisboa, one of the fewest Fashion Week organizations that decided to keep its event with a social interaction (with all the recommended safety measures) that reminded us a bit of what things used to be in the pre-COVID era, and what we can expect at least for the next months. Of course, kisses were changed by elbow taps, backstage was only accessible for those with a PCR test, and even though tension was always around us due to all these measures, the truth is that everything was done properly and made us feel safe. AHHH, and the Portuguese coffee and Pastéis de Nata made it feel like home.

Doing an event like this during times like this is not a whim. It’s actually really important for the designers. Of course with all the new technologies, designers can be anywhere, even show their work in a more controlled, cooler, and fresher way. But is also important for them the contact with an audience (even if it’s 2 meters away), the natural perception they see immediately in people’s eyes. It’s also important to be part of an event like ModaLisboa that supports them with a beautiful space and puts them in contact with different people from all over the world.

I had the chance to speak with some of our favorite menswear designers and here’s what they told me:

DUARTE

Ana Duarte

First of all, as we are all going through challenging times right now, how are you doing?

At Duarte, we have been trying to adapt to this new reality.
Personally, I feel grateful as, health-wise, no one of our team has been affected by this virus. We are taking our decisions step by step while figuring out what is the next best sustainable move to push the brand forward.

How did it impact your work?

Our sales dropped during the lockdown and afterward, which I believe is normal as priorities change in moments like these. As a lot of our orders were canceled or put in standby, we decided to start projects that were on hold (for example we developed a new line of ceremony pieces which is now ready to show to our customers for next year’s events) and also new challenges; we started selling mainly social masks with our exclusive prints and did an archive sale online for the first time and had excellent feedback – we reached new clients and sold more than expected. I think we have to stay positive, always learn, and discover what opportunities arise at all moments.

DUARTE SS21

In recent years, Lisbon has been growing on the fashion map. Could you say living in Lisbon inspire your style/inspiration? How?

I love our laidback and relaxed culture. Also, the light in Lisbon is like nowhere else I’ve been and the beach is so close that at any moment we can just go and breathe in the ocean air, which is inspiring.

In such a small country what’s the importance of ModaLisboa for you as a designer?

It is an important event for everyone that loves fashion and respects our creative and manufacturing skills. It is the perfect place to showcase our collections and reach a broader and interested audience and it shows that the brand has credibility.

How do you feel your work has evolved over the past few years and how do you feel you’ve grown as a designer since you first started?

The first collection I presented was at ModaLisboa in March 2015. It was my Master’s degree collection, from my time at the London College of Fashion. Looking back, it seems so long ago and at the same time like it was yesterday! I feel that I am more confident when I’m designing and more focused on what our customers and pieces should be. Also, I’ve decided to focus more on prints, which usually are the most requested pieces for events and editorials. Our team has grown, and it is good to see all of us working towards the same goal, which ultimately is to make beautiful, well and sustainably made, pieces of clothing.

What role does social media take in your life and in your work as a designer?

I believe social media is how we can all connect, no matter where we are. I can reach people from the other side of the globe with just one picture, and that is amazing.

Do you think you need to take risks to be successful in fashion?

Definitely. With no risks, there is no innovation, and fashion is all about creating new, and hopefully meaningful, things.

Do you feel any social responsibility or a duty to comment on political issues?

I feel that all of us have a social responsibility because we influence the people we surround ourselves with. Regarding political issues, I believe that if something goes against what we aim for our planet and against social justice, it has to be commented on and, most importantly, acted upon.

The world is clearly asking for changes regarding on how we consume and how we behave. What do you do to contribute to a more sustainable approach to fashion?

My main focus with Duarte is on sustainable issues – to create awareness to both environmental and social problems.

As a small brand, we do what we can to contribute to a better world:
As our production is still small, we can produce mainly with materials that are an excess from factories, which helps to eliminate stock; we chose quality fabrics that will last longer; we produce locally, so we make sure all of the people who are working with us get paid for their work (we have fair trade in mind); when cutting our pieces, as we cut all of the garments inhouse, we avoid waste and try to maximize the cutting area; with the fabric parts that don’t go into making the garments, we make accessories to present on the collection.

We can always try to do more, and if all the supply chain works together (from supplier to consumer), we can help to minimize overall waste.

DUARTE SS21

Tell us a bit about the inspiration for this collection you are presenting on this edition of MODALISBOA.

For this SS21 season, we “traveled” to the Maui Island in Hawaii. The starting point were the Rainbow Eucalyptus from this island, which are super beautiful and colorful. Allying the cool and sports-inspired vibe of the brand, we hiked from the clear water beaches to the forests near the volcanos and climbed the highest rocks to get a glimpse of the vibrant landscape.
The fabrics are super light and fresh and vary from organic cotton, recycled polyesters to technical fabrics like neoprene.

Anything excited coming soon that you want to tell us about?

During the quarantine, we joined forces with the Portuguese shoe brand “Exceed Shoe Thinkers” and designed their shoes SS21 collection together. Therefore, the shoes for this season will complete the looks and you will be able to have a jacket, a sweater, a shirt, trousers, and sneakers all matching in the same print!

 

 

Filipe Augusto

Filipe Augusto

First of all, as we are all going through challenging times right now, how are you doing?

I’m doing great!

How did it impact your work?

I almost didn’t stop, between teaching and the development of the new collection. At first, it was difficult because as a teacher at the Modatex school, I still had to teach online, which was a bit weird at the beginning, but then I returned to a slightly different normality, with face-to-face classes but full of rules and care.

In recent years, Lisbon has been growing on the fashion map. Could you say living in Lisbon inspire your style/inspiration? How?

Lisbon is the location that allows me to present my work from a platform like Moda Lisboa. My inspiration comes from my homeland (Trás dos Montes and Alto Douro) in the north of Portugal.

In such a small country what’s the importance of ModaLisboa for you as a designer?

For me, ModaLisboa is the “Mother” house of fashion in Portugal, it allows and gives an opportunity to young designers to present and stand out, just as it happened to me when I won the Sangue Novo contest.

Filipe Augusto SS21

How do you feel your work has evolved over the past few years and how do you feel you’ve grown as a designer since you first started?

I believe that my work at the moment is much more consistent as a definition of style and as a designer, I feel way more confident.

Do you think you need to take risks to be successful in fashion?

No, I believe that a good job, even without risks, can lead you to success. Or sometimes it’s just a matter of luck!

The world is clearly asking for changes regarding on how we consume and how we behave. What do you do to contribute to a more sustainable approach to fashion?

As a designer, I always try to use the customization of existing pieces and materials, which become unique and special pieces.

Filipe Augusto SS21

Tell us a bit about the inspiration for this collection you are presenting on this edition of MODALISBOA.

The collection starts from a photographic memory of my Baptism, from which I wrote a reflection poem:

From sin, I was born,
A Man.
And the light path said to be
Purification of Body and Soul,
Water and I cried.
Today was me,
Devoted to the eyes
They said yes!
And I?

This speaks to us of a connection to something that we do not yet have the power to choose and someone does it for us… Within this universe, then, once again, the reference to Portuguese culture and aesthetics emerges, especially references from “Trás dos Montes e Alto Douro ”.

 

 

Ricardo Andrez

Ricardo Andrez

First of all, as we are all going through challenging times right now, how are you doing?

We are slowly trying to return to some normality and understand the new challenges as a brand. All this aside, we are fine, excited to present our new collection, and happy to meet friends during ModaLisboa.

How did it impact your work?

It was a punch in the stomach, to spend two months in a lockdown managing the anxiety, just like a film that we were all the protagonists of. The impact was huge, there were canceled orders and buyers were reticent about new ones. All of this was a turning point, a restructure for the near future. Not stopping completely was the motto.

Ricardo Andrez SS21

In recent years, Lisbon has been growing on the fashion map. Could you say living in Portugal inspires your style/inspiration? How?

I live in Porto, Portugal’s second-largest city, where the textile industrial network is located which makes the development of my work simpler and more objective. Porto has always been important to my work, people are what I would highlight most, but the city’s grayscale is also a factor that has always influenced me creatively.

In such a small country what’s the importance of ModaLisboa for you as a designer?

ModaLisboa is the largest national showcase for creators. It has a super well thought out and assembled structure which facilitates all the preparation of the event. The importance is crucial, without it, it would not be possible to present it in a runway format. We are very grateful for the organization to believe in us and enable us to continue to grow.

How do you feel your work has evolved over the past few years and how do you feel you’ve grown as a designer since you first started?

The evolution has been natural, I think the most visible was that we started to present womenswear when at the beginning we were unique and exclusively a menswear brand. This step was very important commercially speaking and today it would be almost impossible to go back.

What role does social media take in your life and in your work as a designer?

At a professional level, it has become the greatest tool to reach the final consumer in the blink of an eye. I would also highlight access to information, which makes our creative search much easier and faster.

Do you think you need to take risks to be successful in fashion?

I think the risk factor is important in any area, not staying in the same place, and with fashion being such a changeable area, taking risks will always be the right way.

Ricardo Andrez SS21

The world is clearly asking for changes regarding on how we consume and how we behave. What do you do to contribute to a more sustainable approach to fashion?

Our biggest approach to sustainability, for the past two years, has been working with factory deadstock. Today it translates into 90% of the materials in the collection. The brand is small, so this is actually the best work model and also our contribution to the world.

Tell us a bit about the inspiration for this collection you are presenting on this edition of MODALISBOA.

This collection originated from the lockdown and during that period we questioned whether we would proceed with it or not. We think that in this period what made us move/dream were all the artistic areas that we absorb, from literature to cinema, music, video games, etc. Never has the Playful been so important and vital. We decided that the motto of the collection would be a tribute to all these artists, based on all the influences we absorb from them, mixing them with our DNA.

 

Photos by @marcmedina for Fucking Young!