For Fall/Winter 2017, Napapijri partnered with London menswear designer Martine Rose to create an exclusive collection that takes inspiration from the 90’s fusion of high-end fashion and streetwear, a period with a heavy focus on outerwear in which urban youth took high-end fashion from the catwalk and made it their own. Napapijri’s extensive archive and outerwear expertise allowed Martine Rose to choose individual iconic pieces that inspired her and merged them with the bold block colours from her research.
The collection was largely inspired by the iconic Skidoo anorak, created for an expedition to the North Pole. The Skidoo is at the core of the “Napa by Martine Rose” collection, a working outerwear piece chosen for its striking uniqueness and heritage. The original Skidoo is a one-off creation: made in specialist fabric to protect against the elements, it is heavily quilted and embellished with sponsorship patches. From this, Martine decided to keep some of the original details but updated the garment by playing with proportion, branding and colour.
Another style chosen from the archive, Napapijri’s iconic Rainforest jacket, is a waterproof piece designed for autumn and mild winter days. The original water-repellent outer shell and fleece were designed to complement an active lifestyle. Martine took this garment and flipped it on its head, preserving its practicality the garment was designed as a zip up jacket, rather than an over the head windbreaker. Experimenting with new fabrics and adjusting the proportions of the jacket amplifies the Martine Rose design aesthetic.
The collection includes a piece made of the brand’s heritage Curly Fleece fabric. Martine interpreted the Curly Fleece into a contemporary hoody whilst simultaneously retaining the original fabric.
“The most inspirational part was featuring heritage pieces such as the Skidoo and working with the original fabrics. It was a pleasure to be given the opportunity to incorporate, modify and update iconic pieces. I strived to keep Napapijri’s recognisable DNA in the collection”. – Martine Rose
We wrapped up Paris Fashion Week with the Kenzo Spring/Summer 2018 collection. Exploring summer rituals, the collection was a vision of an underground garden party made up of new-romantic hedonists, ones you could easily find frolicking in the Tulleries, Bois de Boulogne or Butte Chaumont at dusk.
Inspired by a thrill-seeking youth fond of excess, the “Hamptons Parano” collection by Uniforme Paris is built around a bleary, psychedelic, under the influence perception of reality.
Y-3 Spring/Summer 2019 is born from Yohji Yamamoto’s obsession with “air between the body” and adidas’ devotion to movement by engineering apparel and footwear for the human form.
For Spring/Summer 2019, Sean Suen explores the territory between the helplessness of youth and the freedom of escape, the excitement of running away and the fear that leads into hiding.
Designer Chitose Abe’s signature riff on hybrid starts by drawing on the decreasing relevance of the boundaries of season, by continuing a narrative that takes fabrics and patterns associated with one season and transposing them to another.
The Études collection for Spring/Summer 2019 evokes a conceit of soft masculinity, where the spirit of a West Coast vagabond traverses early Hip Hop’s forgotten glory.
The SS19 collection of Amiri, presented at The Théâtre National de Chaillot, was conceived with the colors of a Los Angeles sunset in mind and punctuated by primary pastel shades, representing the final procession of a sunrise.
Hed Mayner’s collections present a tension between fluid and structured pieces, influenced by traditional Jewish orthodox tailoring and military outwear.
Hernan Cano at Brave Milan styled by Lorenzo Chiara with pieces from MSGM, GCDS, Vivienne Westwood, Acne Studios, and Burberry, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
In a new phase of exploration into “the worker” aesthetic, Preston considers the assembly line with the Spring/Summer 2019 collection that is marked by recontextualization of factory issued prints, serial numbers and codes for high fashion.
