Komakino‘s Fall/Winter 2014 collection inspirations spans from military utility to the noise subculture, industrial and EBM music scene with a particular reference to the esoteric artistic collective Temple of Psychic Youth.
MA-1s jacket, coat and suiting are reinterpreted with fabric contrast – heavy wool, brushed cotton and leather are mixed with colourful rubber neoprene details and camouflages. Cut-out on jackets, with contest colour fold, utility intervention, layered flaps and coats keep a more constructed silhouette when paired with exagerated volumes and oversized tops, feather down quilted jackets and sweatpants.
Signature prints and embroideries runs throughout the collection. The persistent, relentless vocabulary of the label, a fusion of counterculture references and youth codes, opens to a more refined and composed wardrobe. The Italian and English manufactured label is about clothes with spirit, an evolving collection that’s potent from concept to finish.
Grimaud Leclercq is a Master student at La Cambre (Brussels). His collection, captured on film by Margaux Nieto, is a combination of the classical menswear wardrobe and the universe of american housewives.
Cover story captured by Matt Irwin and art directed by Nicola Formichetti with actor and singer Olly Alexander, an openly gay singer who doesn’t use ambiguity in his lyrics to make him pass for straight, in order to entice a legion of screaming girls. FY! also analyse various points of view of what an outsider is through editorials, texts and interviews with among others Ahmed Abdelrahman, Demna Gvasalia and Henrik Silvius.