For Fall/Winter 2020, Ernest W. Baker takes inspiration from the American Pop culture phenomenon of the late 1970s. Focusing on the opposing energies of the time, contrasting depravity and decadence, the traditional with avant-guard, the epitome of the movement can be found in the iconic anomaly of Studio 54. The club emitted feelings of both freedom and elegance, grit and glamour combining to create a kitsch, futuristic luxury that was unseen for the time. Coming through dark times, the thought was forward-thinking with an optimism for a renewal of possibilities for the future. The collection aims to portray a retro-futuristic sentiment, exploring the glorification of modernism from this era, creating a fantasy of what it might have felt like to be lucky enough to pass through the velvet ropes of the club. A reference is made to the mix of characters that entered through those doors; the way they dressed, the way they walked and talked and posed, possibly in anticipation of a New Year’s Eve celebration and a restoration of optimism.
Building on this fantasy, the collection is as appropriate now as it was then, a dark yet elegant reality brought to life by the photography of Vladimir Kaminetsky and styling of Mauricio Nardi.
For the men’s Summer 2020 collection, Dior’s iconic “newspaper” print – first created for the Spring/Summer 2000 haute couture show – has been reworked by Kim Jones in collaboration with the contemporary artist Daniel Arsham.
This season, Orelsan and Sébastian Strappazzon drew their inspiration from “The Marathon des Sables”, a 160-mile race through the Sahara dubbed “The Toughest Footrace on Earth”, where participating athletes endure a six-day trek.
London’s University of Westminster hosted its third BA show during London Fashion Week, under the leadership of Professor Andrew Groves who radically rethinks the purposefulness of fashion education, delivering a collective catwalk show aligned with the fashion calendar.
Derived from the constant tension between Western imposition and traditional African idols explored in Chinua Achebe’s writings, “Underground Spiritual” keys on the clash between traditional and non-traditional culture that reached a crescendo during the 1960s and 70s.
For FW20, the 3.1 Phillip Lim essential wardrobe is streamlined and strengthened, with styling elements that casually disrupt the modern wardrobe, revisiting the brand’s core New York heritage.
As photographer Pasquale Autorino toys with perspective and composition, he captures the dichotomy between balance and equilibrium of the collective in this Fucking Young!’s group editorial.
