Edward Crutchley Spring/Summer 2016 collection builds on industry leading experience as a consultant to, amongst others, Louis Vuitton Homme. His work gracefully rides the line between new sportswear and the international standard for true luxury. An innate knowledge of artisanal textile techniques from around the globe and design philosophy focusing on the importance of preserving independent and bespoke craftsmanship in the face of volume production and standardization set his brand apart from the crowd.
Edward Crutchley’s signature patterned handwriting remains as a focus throughout the collection following on from his previous work, this season serving as an accent to an intelligently curated range of suiting and colour blocked cottons. Edward has drawn inspiration from modern pilgrimage, combining ideas of historic holy men with the modern era of travel,exploring the idea of the journey spiritually as well as spatially.
Key pieces include shirts in contrasting volumes, impactful print on silk, wrapped and draped trousers indicative of the signature Edward Crutchley silhouette and performance inspired jacquard knitwear. Print in the traditional sense appears for the first time this season blending depictions of modern pilgrims and Ethiopian religious portraiture. Ethnic moods and references are a constant source of inspiration both aesthetically and texturally, inline with Edward Crutchley’s pioneering approach to sourcing the finest and rarest of materials from across the globe.
A dedicated discipline of his alma mater, Central Saint Martins’ “research, research, research” philosophy, his clothes are grounded in tradition by a true respect and rethinking of craftsmanship and materials. This design approach underpins the Edward Crutchley brand in a world where looking to the past as a way to re-fashion the future is increasingly overlooked.
Inspired by a thrill-seeking youth fond of excess, the “Hamptons Parano” collection by Uniforme Paris is built around a bleary, psychedelic, under the influence perception of reality.
Y-3 Spring/Summer 2019 is born from Yohji Yamamoto’s obsession with “air between the body” and adidas’ devotion to movement by engineering apparel and footwear for the human form.
For Spring/Summer 2019, Sean Suen explores the territory between the helplessness of youth and the freedom of escape, the excitement of running away and the fear that leads into hiding.
Designer Chitose Abe’s signature riff on hybrid starts by drawing on the decreasing relevance of the boundaries of season, by continuing a narrative that takes fabrics and patterns associated with one season and transposing them to another.
The Études collection for Spring/Summer 2019 evokes a conceit of soft masculinity, where the spirit of a West Coast vagabond traverses early Hip Hop’s forgotten glory.
The SS19 collection of Amiri, presented at The Théâtre National de Chaillot, was conceived with the colors of a Los Angeles sunset in mind and punctuated by primary pastel shades, representing the final procession of a sunrise.
Hed Mayner’s collections present a tension between fluid and structured pieces, influenced by traditional Jewish orthodox tailoring and military outwear.
Hernan Cano at Brave Milan styled by Lorenzo Chiara with pieces from MSGM, GCDS, Vivienne Westwood, Acne Studios, and Burberry, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
In a new phase of exploration into “the worker” aesthetic, Preston considers the assembly line with the Spring/Summer 2019 collection that is marked by recontextualization of factory issued prints, serial numbers and codes for high fashion.
