September marks the official return to work, and with it comes fashion month, with stops in some of the industry’s key cities. One of the most important, of course, is Milan, where George Cortina presented his collaboration with Malo.
George Cortina by Mikael Jansson
The New York-based stylist and fashion editor has spent decades shaping images, characters and wardrobes for some of the world’s leading fashion publications. Known for his sharp eye and instinct for menswear, he brings that experience to a twelve-piece capsule with Malo, the Italian brand founded in Florence in 1972 and known for its expertise in cashmere and knitwear.
Drawing from Malo’s rich archive while giving its classic language a contemporary attitude, the collection brings together Italian craftsmanship and a distinctive approach to menswear. We had the pleasure of speaking with George Cortina about the collaboration, his approach to dressing and the ideas that continue to shape his view of style.
George, as you know, we’re immersed in the fashion month, and your September is looking pretty intense. On top of all your other professional commitments, you’re also launching this collaboration with Malo in Milan. Congratulations! Before we get into the collection, what’s the first thing you do when you arrive in the city?
Thank you!
The first thing I do when I arrive in the city is check into my hotel and have a shower. Then I walk to my home away from home, Sant Ambroeus, for an iced coffee.
Nice spot. Speaking of coffee, are you an espresso man? If so, how do you take it? And do you have any favorite places in Milan to stop for one?
Yes, I am, but I only drink it with ice. I tend to go to places very close to where I stay, like Cova or Sant Ambroeus.
They never fail! Staying with Italy, what’s your favorite city in the country? And do you agree with the idea that Italians dress best?
My favorite city in Italy is Naples, and I find that, just as in any country, some people dress well but not all.
Fair. Looking at the collection you designed with Malo, I can see these pieces fitting very naturally into Milan, and perhaps into other cities too. There’s something quite unexpected about this collaboration. What was it about the brand that made you want to collaborate with them, and how did the whole thing come about?
I was in Colombia for Christmas, and a friend thought it would be a good idea for me to meet David, who purchased Malo. We met in a very casual setting on a boat. From there, we started having conversations with Michelle Kessler, who runs MALO. We picked a date, went through the archives, and decided on which stitches and styles I wanted. The most important thing for me was to bring a new sense of color proportion to the quality of the cashmere.
How was visiting the archive? What was the most unexpected thing you found in there?
It was a great experience and a trove of technical creativity. The most unexpected thing I found was the workmanship. Speechless!
We can imagine… Collaborating with brands is not something new for you, whether it’s Jacques Marie Mage on eyewear or your ongoing collection with Anderson & Sheppard. But this time you’re stepping into knitwear and cashmere. How much does your own wardrobe and the way you get dressed every morning influence what you create?
Collaborating with them has been a pleasure, and my collection with Anderson & Sheppard is still evolving. I get dressed every morning, and I know what I like and dislike. That’s what drives me to create. I always want to create pieces I can’t find for myself.
Malo is a Spanish word that means “bad guy” in English. From your point of view, how does a bad guy dress, and how does he approach life?
A bad guy, for me, dresses in leather, approaches life irresponsibly, and can be quite sexy.
What about you, George? How do you dress when you want to be a bit naughty?
When I want to be a bit naughty, I wear leather and, of course, cashmere.
The perfect combo! Talking about clothes and looks, what’s your favorite piece or look from the collection? And what kind of occasion would you wear it for?
There are so many things in the collection that I love. They’re all my favorites. I like every single garment, and I would wear them constantly, for any occasion.
Who would you love to see wearing your Malo pieces? Is there a particular man you have in mind?
I’d love to see anyone who seeks out the Malo pieces wearing them.
When you think of true male elegance, who comes to mind?
For me, the most elegant men in the world are Gianni Agnelli, Nick Cave and David Bowie.
The collection references Newman, McQueen, Delon, Belmondo, Brando… What did those men understand about dressing that you think men today have forgotten?
They understood the importance of an understated sense of ease.
That sense of ease brings me to sprezzatura, which you talk about as one of the ideas behind the collection. What does sprezzatura mean to you, and can you still look effortless when you’ve spent a lot of time thinking about how you look?
Sprezzatura is a natural ease with clothes. You don’t overthink it; it comes naturally. Sprezzatura is the very definition of ease.
And yet, nowadays, do you think men are still afraid to take risks with fashion or break the rules because they worry it might somehow challenge their masculinity?
I feel that, in order to break the rules, you have to know them first. If you don’t know the rules, you shouldn’t try to break them because you will fail.
Right. What are the first things you notice about a guy when he walks into a room and make you think, “Nope, not for me”?
The first things I notice are shoes and bad cashmere.
Ugh, red flag! After decades of working with clothes and images, has your idea of what makes a man stylish changed over the years?
No, I still feel the same way I felt when I started, of course, through a lens of going with the times, but changing within your own world.
