Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2026
by Anna Barr
Following Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent staged its Fall/Winter 202-27 collection at the Bourse de Commerce, home to the Pinault Collection, but it was a strong literary reference that Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello drew upon for his inspiration, looking at James Baldwin’s Giovanni’s Room.
The collection echoed Baldwin’s depiction of masculinity as something unresolved, challenging social expectations, something that we still see today unfolding on social media. In many ways, we are witnessing a world where young men are becoming almost radicalized into what they think are the traditional roles of men. What makes Giovanni’s Room so strong today is how, at its core, it speaks of vulnerability, a subject that fashion tends to steer away from as if it’s a sickness. Questioning of what maleness and masculinity can mean at the house of Saint Laurent has been a reoccurring theme for Vaccarello, but somehow with the current world climate, it feels different, more relevant than ever. It is quite refreshing to see a collection that wasn’t about redefining masculinity through provocation, but through honesty.
Eroticism, like in the book, was handled with restraint suggested through reveal and concealment rather than exposure. There was an air of reimagined mid-century minimalism that was brought forward to today with stone-washed fabrics and distressed couture textiles introduced friction into otherwise pure forms, meanwhile the iconic Saint Laurent smoking appeared in clean lines, reading almost as protective, not aggressive armor. Black dominated, but again this is the color of the house which is both was both classical and iconoclastic. Vaccarello proposed a man who is strong without denying fragility, elegant without excess, and erotic without performance. It was a collection about what remains after desire, the clothes we reach for, the selves we assemble, and the quiet power of dressing to re-enter the world. The dressing part is made easy; it’s the world part we need to all work together on.
Check out the collection below:
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