SAGABOI Fall/Winter 2026
by Anna Barr
For Fall/Winter 2026, Sagaboi presents a collection called Riddimical Ambush. It was shown during Milan Fashion Week with support from the Italian fashion council. The collection places Caribbean authorship at the center of contemporary luxury, using uniform and tailoring as tools of cultural authority.
Creative Director Geoff K. Cooper draws from a deep personal lineage. He is a descendant of the Merikins, formerly enslaved African Americans who fought as Colonial Marines in the War of 1812 and were later settled in Trinidad. This history of service, displacement, and self-determination informs the collection’s marine and uniform language.
But Cooper’s understanding of uniform is also shaped by everyday Caribbean life: watching his father prepare as a police officer, his mother as a nurse, and growing up within the Shouter Baptist Church, a faith founded by the Merikins. In these spaces, uniform becomes a site of pride, discipline, and ritual. Dressing is an act of intention.
The silhouettes are anchored by sharp, structured tailoring. Key pieces include the ceremonial Ramajay Coat, a floor-length military-inspired piece treated as armor. The Merikin Marine Jacket reworks a 19th-century Red Coat uniform with embroidered steel pan stick motifs, shells, and sea glass. Tailoring appears in sober shades, but also in leopard print—reclaimed here as a historical symbol of African and diasporic leadership, not excess.
Workwear and corduroy sets extend the uniform logic. Crochet elements, handcrafted by women in Trinidad, add a layer of labor and resilience. The collection’s structure is influenced by the rhythm and discipline of steel pan culture, born from discarded oil drums in Trinidad. The power here is expressed through control, not spectacle.
The presentation reflected this philosophy. It was staged as a static installation at the Fondazione Sozzani, with models in deliberate formation. A soundscape blended steel pan notes with hymns from the Spiritual Baptist Church, created with long-time collaborators BLAKGOLD. Over a hundred paper boats were scattered on the floor, referencing migration, passage, and survival.
Check out the collection below:
CREDITS:
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Geoff K. Cooper
STYLIST: Chalisa Guerrero @chalisaguerrerostylist
SAGABOI STUDIO TEAM: Josanne Briggs | Sara Linovsky | Karessa Williams
Mauricia Emerson | Josephone Agbana
CASTING: Geoff & Co Studios Ltd
PRODUCTION DESIGN: Geoff & Co Studios Ltd
DRESSERS: Nadia Dmitrieva | Alexandra Athanasiadi | Ines Chaieb | Teresa Matas
Michelle Flores | Elif ykü Akkaya | Nikol Kuzma | Isadora cossari Fabiana Manganella
Katerina karatskhelia | Ebenezer Tuffour | Derin Demirtas Diya Kalra | Yash Vardhan Rungta
COMMS/ PR: The Atentive
MUSIC:
Original Soundtrack by BLAKGOLD x New Generation Steel Orchestra x St. Catherine’s
Spiritual Baptist Church
MODELS: Thomas, Dai, Ken, Lyu – BOOM Models | Christopher, Tiago, Radja, Tyrone, Aidas – Infinity Management | Adebayo – YU Models | Maiku, Modu – ROW Model Management
Levi – CMA Models
DIRECTORS) OF PHOTOGRAPHY: Vito Dane | Abdel Abdulai
EDITOR: Eghbal Raoufifard
PHOTOGRAPHY: Vito Dane
HMUA: Luca Mannucci | Donatella Ferrari BBSkill | StudioRe | Backstage Service Group
Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2026
META CAMPANIA COLLECTIVE Fall/Winter 2026
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