QASIMI‘s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Undercurrent, is shaped by labour and repetition. The collection treats clothing not as a finished object but as an evolving record of gesture and transformation, garments that carry the traces of their making.

Relaxed tailoring, modular construction, and material manipulation define the season. Deep pleats structure shirts and outerwear. Sheer layers reveal the architecture of garments. Exposed threads, displaced seams, and visible construction details celebrate the act of making rather than hiding it. Silhouettes move between utility and refinement, balancing precision with ease. The house’s signature earth-toned palette runs throughout: brown, mocha, and camel bring warmth, while agave green punctuates the collection alongside accents of olive, rose dawn, and white.

The season marks the first chapter of a two-season exploration inspired by the work of Hassan Sharif, a foundational figure in conceptual art in the UAE. Developed in dialogue with Sharif’s estate, the project translates the artist’s commitment to process and accumulation into the language of clothing. Sharif transformed industrial and everyday materials through repetitive manual actions: tying, weaving, binding, folding. Rather than directly referencing his artworks, the collection adopts the principles underpinning his practice. Repetition becomes construction. Accumulation becomes layering. Gesture becomes form.

These ideas surface throughout. Shirts are structured through deep pleating. Modular panels shift with the body. Threads extend beyond hems. One tailoring look is presented entirely inside out, exposing every seam and construction line. Crochet belts sit low on the hips, their loose threads grazing the legs.

The collection also draws on the Gulf’s pre-industrial past, before oil transformed the region. References to pearl diving and fishing appear through sheer shirts and trousers printed with wave-like textures, reflective surfaces that catch light like water, and open crochet structures that recall fishing nets. These elements sit naturally alongside the themes of accumulation and manual labour that connect the collection to Sharif’s practice.

Classic denim arrives in pleated and barrel-leg silhouettes. The house’s signature check returns in lightweight modal. Knitwear silhouettes inspired by Khalid Al-Qasimi’s earlier work are revisited. A poplin shirt is constructed to read as a sweater layered over a shirt without any actual layering. Trousers feature wrap panels at the hip. Airy silhouettes in olive and agave green introduce controlled volume that moves with the body. The collection is the first half of a conversation that will continue next season.

Check it out below: