Pitti Uomo 110: Highlights from Florence

Pitti Uomo 110 once again offered a glimpse into the mood and movements shaping Spring/Summer 2027. Across the Fortezza da Basso, a sense of understated luxury prevailed, with brands embracing lightweight fabrics, relaxed tailoring and earthy, Mediterranean-inspired palettes that favoured craft and comfort over excess. Knitwear continued to evolve beyond its traditional role, while retro-inflected footwear and softly structured silhouettes reinforced a growing appetite for effortless elegance. Alongside these wider trends, standout moments from guest designers Sunflower and Simone Rocha, emerging names and established Italian houses captured the creative energy that makes Pitti such a unique fixture on the fashion calendar. We rounded up some of our highlights over four days of what went down in Florence this season.

Highlights:

CODE Korea
Returning for its third edition, CODE Korea continued its collaboration between Pitti Immagine and the Korea Creative Content Agency (KOCCA) to highlight the creativity and innovation of South Korea’s fashion scene. Presented within the historic Polveriera space, the project brought together six labels: Ajobyajo, Egnarts, Finoacinque, Sung Ju, Theballon, and Vegan Tiger, offering visitors a broad view of contemporary Korean design, aesthetics, and artisanal craftsmanship.

GUESS
GUESS returned to Pitti Uomo 110 with dedicated spaces for GUESS Jeans and GUESS Man, highlighting two distinct yet complementary identities. Both concepts shared a contemporary architectural language of clean lines, natural materials, and immersive elements, reflecting the evolution of the brand. GUESS Jeans unveiled a new installation inspired by Californian surf culture and the spirit of the West Coast, complete with interactive features and an exclusive preview of its collaboration with Quiksilver. The collection blended GUESS’ denim heritage with surf influences, combining relaxed silhouettes, layered textures and washed finishes that captured the brand’s enduring connection to California.

Herno
Herno reaffirmed its reputation for understated Italian luxury with a collection that balanced technical innovation and timeless elegance. Travel was a recurring theme throughout the entire Herno collection for Spring Summer 2027. Standout pieces included the Herno Surf Club line, which is the counterpart to the winter Herno Chalet. Characterized by functional garments, soft colors, loose lines, and ultra-lightweight fabrics, from technical fabrics to cotton and denim.

Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha brought her romantic yet subversive vision of menswear to Pitti. Staying true to the codes that have defined her work, the collection blurred eras, genders and references with poetic ease, balancing Victorian elegance with contemporary sportswear. “Simone Rocha does not follow trends; she creates them and draws us into her world,” said Francesca Tacconi, Special Events Coordinator at Pitti Immagine, describing the designer’s work as “a sensory journey to be worn beyond time.” Her appearance at Pitti underscored the event’s commitment to championing distinctive voices that continue to reshape the language of menswear.

Sunflower
Danish label Sunflower brought its understated take on contemporary menswear to Florence as one of Pitti Uomo 110’s guest designers. Celebrating the partnership, Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO Cecilie Thorsmark said, “Marking our 20th anniversary, this collaboration with Pitti Immagine reflects the importance of strong, international partnerships in elevating menswear fashion to a global stage. Pitti has long been a supporter of Nordic fashion, and we are proud to bring Sunflower to Florence as our guest designer – a brand that embodies both the creative and commercial strength of our region.” The appearance further highlighted the growing dialogue between Nordic fashion and the international menswear scene.

William Palmer
We got the chance to meet British designer William Palmer, winner of the I:c Pitti Immagine Award, who is known to subvert the codes of tailoring with humor. He brought his “The Brief Exposure” collection to Pitti Uomo 110 at the Fortezza da Basso’s Sala delle Nazioni, presented through an installation that replicated a bus shelter. With this move, the trade show dedicated a space for the first time to the recipient of its award, the Trieste-based competition that champions emerging fashion talent. Palmer’s ability to translate social and political themes into cohesive, well-crafted garments with a gentle take on menswear was evident in the pieces exhibited at Pitti, all imbued with a characteristic working-class humor.