Paul Smith Fall/Winter 2026
by Adriano Batista
Paul Smith presented his Fall/Winter 2026 men’s collection in an intimate salon show. The theme was “magpie dressing,” inspired by the joy of collecting treasures and stories.
The designer worked closely with Sam Cotton, the new Head of Men’s Design, whom he has mentored for years. They found inspiration in the brand’s own archive in Nottingham, which holds nearly 5,000 garments from over five decades. Revisiting shows and campaigns from the late 80s and early 90s, they reimagined iconic tailoring silhouettes for today.
Key pieces feature deconstructed and inside-out details, a signature of Smith’s approach to interrupting classic styles. The collection makes strong use of characterful British fabrics like Harris Tweed and Donegal.
The color palette is built on deep autumnal shades, used as a canvas for bursts of color and archival prints. Prints from Smith’s father’s photography archive appear on shirts. Polka dots play with transparency, and are paired with hand-drawn pears, showing the designer’s playful touch. Linings are inspired by Japanese color theory.
The influence of artist Jean Cocteau is also present, particularly in the idea of an “everyday uniform.” Cocteau was rarely seen without his signature shirt and tie, much like Smith with his daily suit. This inspired sartorial details like layered cuffs, sheer fabrics, and button covers.
Accessories have a worn-in feel, with tumbled leather bags and belts. The presentation extended beyond the clothes. A mural by artist Colin Barnes, who captured early Paul Smith designs in 1976, greeted guests. Inside, trompe-l’oeil techniques created playful moments, and benches were covered in prints of everyday objects like scissors and coffee cups, continuing the theme of finding joy in collected things.
Check out the collection below:
Burberry Spring 2026
Saul Nash Fall/Winter 2026
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