Martin Margiela’s Personal Archive Goes to Auction
by Adriano Batista
Part of Martin Margiela‘s personal archive is going up for sale, spanning from 1984 to 2008. Organised by Maurice Auction in collaboration with Kerry Taylor Auctions, the auction will take place in Paris on 9 July, with more than 200 lots tracing his career from his early designs for the Canette d’Or in Antwerp through to his departure from the house in 2008.
The archive includes photos, drawings, and objects. Margiela had spoken about the decision before his passing: “After many years of moving archival material from place to place and subsequent loans for exhibitions, I felt it was time to let go a part of my fashion memorabilia. After a long questioning, it was the idea of making happy several collectors and institutions that made me finally decide to send them into the world.”
This marks the first time a living creator directly collaborated with an auction house to offer their personal archive. Salomé Pirson, the auctioneer leading the sale, described the archive as revealing the breadth of Margiela’s thinking. “This is not simply a fashion sale,” she said. “It goes far beyond clothing.” Alex Baddeley of Kerry Taylor Auctions added that the auction offers unprecedented access to the personal archive of a designer whose reputation is as enigmatic as it is profound.
The sale also includes around sixty outfits, bags, accessories, and shoes from the Hermès wardrobe of Margiela’s late mother, Léa Bouchet. She had supported him from a young age in his ambition to become a designer, and during his tenure at Hermès from 1997 to 2003, he gifted her several pieces. Their presence in the sale brings an intimate dimension to the collection, reflecting the years he spent working with exceptional artisans, textiles, and leathers at the French house.
Before the auction, an exhibition curated by longtime friend Bob Verhelst will run from 4 to 8 July at 71 rue de la Fontaine au Roi in the 11th arrondissement. The space evokes a small early 20th-century workshop, and the scenography is designed to feel like an unwrapping. Most of the objects have never been shown publicly. Entry is free by reservation through the Maurice Auction website. The auction begins at 2:00 pm on 9 July.
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