Hiroaki Sueyasu is stepping away from the immediate. After twelve years of KIDILL, the graphic prints and idea-driven collaborations that marked the brand’s earlier seasons have given way to something more internal: pattern-making, textile embellishment, the work of the hand. “Looking back, KIDILL has existed for over twelve years now,” Sueyasu says. “And, to say it plainly, I finally feel ready to confront the very depth of clothing.”

The collection, titled Chaotic Discord, is not a comment on a world in disorder. For Sueyasu, it is “a deliberate departure from what is considered legitimate or authentic.” He admits he doesn’t fully know whether the forms he has arrived at are aesthetic. “Chaos, too, transforms with time. I don’t want to endorse the moment when yesterday’s chaos hardens into a classic uniform and starts to look like an answer. I still want mystery and secrets to remain inside the clothing.”

That mystery surfaces in the construction. Jackets, trousers, and shirts are distorted and rippling, carried by meticulous work that conceals a multitude of darts. Denim pieces and sweatshirts are covered in crackle paint, built from cutouts assembled with nearly three hundred pins. Over time and with wear, the painted film fractures and peels, revealing badges and details hidden beneath. These garments carry a temporal dimension, changing as they live.

Tartan is recomposed into patchwork, the pattern deliberately disjointed and enlarged beyond its original scale, folding back on itself to introduce a second displacement within the silhouette. Shirts, T-shirts, and denim are made by printing sheets with flyer-like graphics, coating them in silicone, and applying them directly onto the garment. Where sections lift away, another screen-print beneath is revealed. The construction is layered, both physically and visually.

The collection’s sole collaboration is with Juicy Couture. Drawing on the rhinestones, sequins, and wing motifs of early 2000s celebrity fashion, the collaboration pushes these elements to their extreme. Oversized hoodies are folded and reconstructed, finding a strange balance and coherence in the process.

The collection was presented during Paris Fashion Week. Check it out below: