John Lawrence Sullivan Spring/Summer 2027
by Adriano Batista
John Lawrence Sullivan presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection as part of INTERVENTION VI during Berlin Fashion Week, exploring the body as a site of ambiguity. Strength and fragility, discipline and impulse, masculinity and femininity: rather than existing in opposition, these forces coexist within a single body. The collection does not try to resolve these tensions. It proposes garments that allow the wearer to inhabit the space between.
A key reference was Modern Lovers (1990), the portrait series by French photographer Bettina Rheims, which captures bodies liberated from conventional ideals and prescribed notions of gender. That spirit runs through the collection. Within menswear, boat slit-neck tops sit alongside shorts constructed to resemble skirts, and shoes feature heels. In womenswear, double-cuff shirts and mini-length jumpsuits developed from exaggerated military shirts shift the codes in the other direction.
The exploration extends to textiles. Raschel lace, net tulle, crushed velvet, and patent finishes, materials traditionally associated with femininity, appear throughout, contributing to an androgynous expression of the body. The Japanese concept of shibari also runs through the collection, carrying its dual meanings: the structural constraints of tailoring and the physical act of binding. Inspired by the bondage drawings of Nancy Grossman, tailored jackets and coats feature self-fabric tapes extending from beneath the lapels, allowing garments to be tied around the body. The discipline of tailoring merges with the physicality of restraint.
Snake and lizard patterns, along with python leather, appear as a second skin, reinforcing the theme of transformation. These elements carry into shoes, belts, bags, and gloves, extending the idea across the body.
Check it out below:
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