GmbH Fall/Winter 2026
by Adriano Batista
The GmbH Fall/Winter 2026 collection is born from a specific anger. The brand cites a German word that recently appeared: Friedensangst, or “the fear of peace”. It describes the reported panic in a weapons manufacturer’s boardroom at the prospect of peace, due to its effect on profits. For GmbH, this is a grotesque symbol of a system that values shareholder returns over people, perpetuating endless war.
Since its start nearly ten years ago, the brand has defined itself by a refusal to stay silent. This collection continues that stance, born from a desire to scream, grieve, and resist. The designers want to find beauty within this darkness.
For their fourth Berlin show, they looked to the city’s past for inspiration. They turned to the experimental music scene of the early 1980s, focusing on industrial and synth bands like DAF and Einstürzende Neubauten, and iconic frontman Blixa Bargeld. This was a Berlin of counterculture and utopian aspiration, a contrast to the city they see now, which they feel is being destroyed by greed and repression. The collection traces these personal and historical references to bring that spirit into the present.
The design process was anchored by music and four poems. As always at GmbH, clothing acts as a code, a signifier of belonging for those who share its viewpoint. The collection is titled Doppelgänger. It is framed as a warning. A warning against reliving humanity’s past mistakes, and a form of resistance against a world the designers see as dominated by men who wish to subjugate through violence and fear.
The clothes become the uniform for this perspective, merging the aggressive aesthetics of industrial music with a political plea, suggesting that fashion can be a form of testimony and a call to remember.
Check out below the collection presented at INTERVENTION V during Berlin Fashion Week:
John Lawrence Sullivan Fall/Winter 2026
DAGGER Fall/Winter 2026
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