DSM Kei Ninomiya SS27 at Pitti Uomo 110
by Anna Barr
DSM Kei Ninomiya, took center stage Wednesday night, wrapping up the evening at Pitti Uomo 110 with the highly anticipated show marking the runway debut for the brand that launched in 2025. The past two collections drew on communities from college to sports, but this season saw a big jump looking towards the punk community for inspiration while introducing more structured pieces and tailoring into the young brand. DSM, like CDG, has built larger-than-life communities to cult-like level followers. Part of the success of DSM has been creating a place for people to want to shop offline and bringing in an element of culture. But Punk is different, punk is supposed to be anti-capitalist or seen as a money grab since Malcolm McLaren opened up shop. Sceptics aside, it’s a fun collection that reminds us that non-conformity is more than a fashion statement. Like the 70s, there was a growing sense of alienation, a rejection of convention and a desire to challenge established systems today.
DSM Kei Ninomiya has positioned itself as more accessible than his own brand. The Japanese designer known for his conceptual, innovative work at his label noir kei ninomiya under the CDG umbrella first started his career at Comme des Garçons as a pattern cutter. Although punk imagery has long since been absorbed into mainstream fashion, reducing it to leather jackets and plaid, Kei looks at its deeper significance, starting with community tapping into the mindset rooted in creativity. The aesthetics throughout the collection felt as though Ninomiya explored the fluidity of the movement values rather than adhering to a fixed dress code, with genderless pieces, DIY customization, rejecting mass-produced trends, and tapping into different artists, because if anything, being punk now in the world of AI is about human art and expression.
Leaving the show, I was pondering what makes the concept of punk today fresh, are the values centered on independence and resistance against a world of lemmings. For me, elements of its ethos can be found in communities like Antifa, Extinction Rebellion, and even movements like the Mahsa Amini protests and Free Palestine. Punk is shaped by digital culture, climate anxiety, economic precarity and debates around identity and technology, and for one night DSM Kei Ninomiya showed us how the past, present and future collide.
Check it out below:
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