There is something deliciously British about a house founded to protect us from the elements eventually turning winter into a matter of attitude. Burberry has spent more than a century perfecting the art of confronting cold, rain and wind, yet under Daniel Lee that relationship with the weather is beginning to acquire an entirely different temperature. For Winter 2026, the House does not treat winter as a threat, but as an excuse to dress differently: darker, more sensual, more nocturnal. Glen Luchford captures this new energy in his characteristically cinematic language, while Romeo Beckham and FKA twigs embody, beneath the lights of London, a city that always seems to be on the verge of something happening.

Naturally, London is once again the point of departure, but this is no postcard version of the British capital. Burberry’s London needs no red telephone boxes or borrowed clichés to make itself recognisable. It is there in the attitude, in that almost impossible blend of sophistication and a certain unruliness that allows a beautifully constructed coat to be worn with the same ease as a biker jacket. Shot along the Thames, the campaign extends the world established by the show at Old Billingsgate Market and confirms something Daniel Lee seems to understand instinctively: a fashion house’s heritage only becomes interesting once it stops behaving like heritage.

Underneath it all, the trench inevitably remains, but its intentions have changed. The Hoxton leaves behind the severity of traditional gabardine for silk, while plongé leather shawl-collar coats push outerwear towards a territory much closer to night. Leather runs through much of the collection, from shearling-collar aviators to the padded biker, alongside more unexpected propositions such as leather joggers and kilts. There is something deliberately provocative in the decision: taking garments associated with practicality and turning them into objects of desire.

As for tailoring, its transformation is equally compelling. Pinstripes and grain de poudre wool retain that unmistakable British precision, but leather peak lapels immediately alter their temperament. Nothing feels entirely formal, nor entirely rebellious. It is precisely this middle ground that makes the proposition feel contemporary: clothes that know the rules well enough to understand when they are worth breaking.

Rather than treating technical elements as purely utilitarian, the collection gives them a more expressive role. Waterproof fabrics are covered in applied prints and coated jacquards, while details borrowed from the trench — belts, cuffs and straps — return as structural devices. It is a far more sophisticated operation than simply repeating familiar signatures. Daniel Lee is doing something great fashion houses rarely manage: using the archive as raw material, rather than as a sales pitch.

If the accessories bring the proposition into focus, it is because they share precisely the same attitude. The Kent, a new biker-inspired men’s boot, has the requisite weight for navigating a city that never seems to stand still. The Bridle, meanwhile, revisits Burberry’s equestrian vocabulary in calf leather and braided House Check. But the real interest lies in how all these pieces come together. This is not a Burberry that needs to remind us who it once was. It is a Burberry far more interested in discovering how far it can go.

Have a look at the Burberry Winter 2026 campaign below: