For Fall/Winter 2026, Ann Demeulemeester continues a dialogue with the house’s past. Creative director Stefano Gallici notes that after introducing pre-collections last season, he wanted to focus on building a wardrobe rather than following a singular, personal narrative. This season, he aimed to avoid getting stuck or repeating himself.

The collection centers on statement pieces meant to endure. There are slouchy jackets, leather bikers, varsity jackets, and bombers. Tailoring appears in relaxed volumes with unexpectedly cropped lengths. Denim is important. Dresses and shirts convey what Gallici calls a “battered romanticism.”

The idea of a muse also shifts. Instead of long-associated figures like Patti Smith, Gallici looked to people who embody the brand’s attitude, even if they aren’t constant wearers. He cites model Jamie Bochert and actor Johnny Depp for their effortless, strong personalities, which represent a modern way to wear Ann Demeulemeester.

For Gallici, this collection represents the house continuing to speak its own language, even as its tone evolves.

Check it out below: