ALAINPAUL Spring/Summer 2027
by Anna Barr
For Spring/Summer 2027, ALAINPAUL explored the space between the stage and the underground, taking inspiration from choreographers Hofesh Shechter, (LA)HORDE, and Sharon Eyal, and the instinctive energy of nightlife. Movement became the collection’s central language, with clothing designed to shift, adapt and carry traces of performance beyond the stage. This idea was brought to life through a live performance developed with choreographer Eric Christison, set to a score by sound designer Senjan Jansen in collaboration with Shygirl, bringing contemporary dance and underground nightlife into the same space.
The collection played with clothing as something adaptable and personal, with leather, denim and knitwear treated through distressing, bleaching, metallic finishes and handwork. Utilitarian details become adornment, while garments can be transformed and worn in unexpected ways, echoing the physicality of dance. Knitwear draws on rehearsal wear, while footwear includes ballerinas and a distorted derby inspired by the imprint years of pointe work leave on the foot. The collection also featured a shoe made in Portugal, reflecting APICCAPS’ idea of “Made in Portugal” as synonymous not only with manufacturing, but also with innovation, development and creation.
In the end, we got pieces that translated the language of performance into sharply constructed tailoring, with projected shoulders, sculpted waists and a new reversed peak lapel bringing a theatrical edge to single-breasted jackets and coats. Pieces felt as though they had been pulled directly from a dancer’s wardrobe, with rehearsal references and trompe l’oeil details recalling costumes seen only from the audience.
Check it out below:
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