Following ACROMATYX over the years has been about watching a language slowly build itself. With FE_MALE 009, that language feels more personal than ever.

As the light softened inside the Palacio de Fernán Núñez, ACROMATYX returned to the runway with a kind of quiet intensity that only comes from time, from persistence, from knowing exactly who you are even as everything else shifts. Presented during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, FE_MALE 009 did not feel like a seasonal drop. It felt like another chapter in a story we have been following for years, one that keeps unfolding without ever fully resolving.

Under the direction of Xavi García and Franx de Cristal, the brand continues to return to its obsessions, but never in the same way twice. This time, tailoring and corsetry meet again, but there is something softer in the confrontation. The lines between masculine and feminine are not just blurred, they are questioned, stretched, made fragile. Jackets feel like they are holding something in, corsets like they are letting something out. There is a sensitivity in the way the materials move. Wool gives weight and grounding, while taffeta and satin catch the light in fleeting, almost emotional ways. Nylon and cotton bring the collection back to the body, to reality. Black remains at the center, as always, but it does not feel heavy. It feels familiar. Around it, tartan and houndstooth appear like echoes of something inherited, something remembered but reworked through a different lens.

The exclusive backstage images by Tania Mendoza capture that intimacy in a way that words struggle to convey. There is a closeness in her photographs, a sense of trust between the subjects and the moment:

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