“So let me be a Cosmopolitan Boy… It’s true that I just want to conquer the globe”, Monsieur Bien sings… Oh yes… He likes metropolitan life. He feels as a citizen of the world, different from anybody else, immune to the trends launched by “the others”, allergic to the conventional rigid rules. He is a cosmopolitan boy (or at least he wants to be!) just like any one of the guys wearing Tim Labenda…
He, Tim is an emerging designer of German origin. NACHTWANDLER is his 2013-14 F/W Collection, and – as he himself told us – reflects the contrast between an energetic lifestyle and the possibility of deceleration. Living in a metropolis like New York is very intense and modern urban men need the possibility to relax and enjoy life in such cities which never sleep… And this is Tim’s style… Cool, casual, sophisticated. The man he dresses wants to stand out from the crowd. He pays attention to his look without giving the impression of spending too much time in front of the mirror. He’s young and he wants to have fun… just like us!
Fucking Young! – Welcome Tim! How are you? Who is Tim Labenda the man and who does the brand Tim Labenda want to represent?
Tim Labenda – Hello! I’m great thank you!
The Tim Labenda guy likes to travel and loves his bustling life in the city. But at the same time he has a deep seeded desire to be isolated, enabling him to spend time self-reflecting. He’s very interested in fashion, but in a very self evident way. He always looks authentically dressed, without giving the impression that he has spent hours in front of a mirror worrying about his appearance. His look is sharp, classy and sophisticated, mixed with casual pieces that allow him to relax in an otherwise busy environment. The collection is supposed to be a modern, classic menswear collection which is suitable for a hybrid customer.
FY – Hugo Boss in 2008. Kenneth Cole in 2010. Ute Ploier in 2009/2011. How did these professional experiences contribute to make you the designer you are today?
TL – Well, I always tried to get the most knowledge possible out of my experiences. I really enjoyed being with these brands for a while to learn how they work and how they became successful. Most of all, I really enjoyed working with Ute Ploier, because I really love her design aesthetic and it was a real pleasure to be inspired by her and her design process. Nevertheless, without all of these experiences I could not image working as I work today!
FY – What is the mood, the style of the man that Tim Labenda chooses to dress?
TL – A great example would be Matthias Schweighöfer, a German actor. Someone who looks absolutely natural and authentically dressed in his clothes is for me a very well dressed man. This guy knows exactly what fits him best. He knows how to attract women and/or men with his laid back attitude and his self-confident style. He never looks like he spends too much time in front of the the mirror and getting ready. A slightly worn out pair of leather boots, a relaxed but fitted trouser with a slender ankle combined with a plain shirt with interesting details and on top a slightly avant-garde blazer or chunky knit cardigan, depending on the occasion. He looks masculine, sexy, easy, and just himself.
FY – What is Maximize the Minimum?
TL – It is the most important self made rule for my designs. I really like my designs to be as clean and minimalistic as possible, but still with an interesting twist to make them somewhat adorable. It’s always in my head to maximize this aspect in every collection and every single piece!
FY – Let’s speak of your 2013-14 F/W Collection… What is your concept? What do you want to tell and who do you want to represent?
TL – The Fall/Winter 2013 Collection, “NACHTWANDLER”, reflects the contrast between an energetic lifestyle and the possibility of deceleration. Living in a metropolis like New York is very intense and modern urban men need the possibility to relax and enjoy life in such cities which never sleep. Personally, for me, New York is one of the most impressive metropolises. It lives from its charming, washed out atmosphere in contrast to its still modern character. All of the slightly used elements in the city, like exposed water tanks on roofs, rusty frontages and bridges, or old tracks that become new, life-giving parks, are what the city defines. This maturity contrast to a reflecting modern architecture in its very straight Bauhaus way is a very energetic and inspiring environment. The collection is designed with the intention to satisfy the needs and demands of those cosmopolitan men.
I really want to give the Tim Labenda guy “time out” while wearing my garments. In energetic places like New York they really need the possibility of feeling cozy and reclusive while doing their daily routine. The collection gives them the possibility to be sophisticatedly dressed in a cozy and relaxed manner.
FY – Which are the materials you privileged in this collection?
TL – The material palette this season has lots of variety in textures, shine, and furriness. I focused on playing around with a rubber double faced jersey material for a trench coat, skinny pants and sweaters. I really love this material because it is cozy but masculine and strong at the same time. It stands in contrast with the hairy and more woolen materials made from mohair, alpaca and cashmere, as well as merino wool. I also found a super nice double faced camel hair fabric in its natural color. For winter I always like to use shearling to make the inside of the clothes and hoods more pleasant and warm. But you also find a complete short shearling jacket in the collection. Heavy cottons and shiny ones are used for more basic pieces. The knitwear this time is made in Switzerland and has a very high quality in texture, yarn and making. The materials used are all cashmere mohair and alpaca wool yarns, mixed with merino wool and a rubber yarn.
FY – It is a collection poised between the contemporary street-wear and the 90s’ grunge reinterpreted in an absolutely minimal version. What do you think the more representative item is?
TL – Definitely the furry shorts and boxy Parker!
FY – Is there a designer representing a real datum point for you?
TL – There are always designers that are inspiring to me. For me it was really intense to work with Ute Ploier and I guess I was really influenced by her. I appreciate that! However, there a several other designers that I like… Kris van Aasche, Dris van Noten, Hedi Slimane, just to name a few.
FY – What cannot lack in Tim Labenda’s wardrobe?
TL – That’s easy! Definitely a white shirt! Maybe the one from my Spring/Summer 2013 collection, pleated in the front with a small Kent collar!
FY – The one linked to the German fashion and, more generally, to Northern Europe is a growing market, which in recent years has seen the emergence of numerous young designers. It is a question that I have asked to some of your colleagues, too… How can you explain this new trend and, more importantly, what will be your future role within the international fashion system?
TL – For me, personally, fashion is not just a job; it must be your passion. So I try to get the best out of me to please the needs and desires of the new generation with an interest in fashion. I hope for myself that my future role is to work as independent designer, without having to prostitute myself for an international fashion brand.
FY – Whom is fashion for today?
TL – Well, I think fashion is for everyone! Everyone that’s interested in it! It is such a pity that German men are not that fashionable, but the younger guys, the upcoming generation, is much more fashion forward, and I am really looking forward to them!
FY – New work in progress?
TL – All I can say is… Be excited! Because I am!
Thanks a lot!
Check out Tim Labenda’s Fall/Winter 2013 Collection here!
