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For Fall/Winter 2016, Y-3 stripped down to an essential aesthetic of rebellious modernism with a tough, industrial edge. Presented during Paris Fashion Week at the raw, intimate, underground space Entrepote Eiffel, the collection hearkened to two stylistic markers of the 1990s—rave culture and minimalism—to present a contemporary view on sport-style.

Since launching Y-3 in 2003, adidas and Yamamoto have displayed daring feats of technical wonder. This season emphasized Yohji’s undeniable footprint on tailoring and fashion while at the same time conjuring a darker, more aggressive style in lean, elongated, and powerful silhouettes. It is in this intersection of classicism and rebellion that the collection finds its strength. The season’s restrained color palette is distinctly monochromatic, executed almost entirely in black, white, and varying shades of gray, with electric shocks of orange and turquoise. Fabrics heighten a slick, industrial mood, yet the overall effect is of utmost simplicity.