Women’s “evening wear” is a genre in the fashion industry which has perpetually troubled conceptual fashion designer, HERMIONE FLYNN. The lack of functionality, comfort, and in her opinion, aesthetics, has created a tradition which prioritises the viewer of the garment rather than the wearer, an issue which is typically associated with womenswear. It is this paradigm which Flynn has tackled head-on. Her strategy in addressing this issue was to approach the design process as if she were designing “C+B = C(ock) and B(alls) = Cock(tail dresses) and Ball(gowns for men)”
Through this approach the importance of functionality and comfort became an overriding theme. Drawing on workmens-wear (also a common dress in the surrounding neighbourhood of FLYNN’s studio), details such as pockets, snaps, keys and ropes became dominating design features in the collection. On the “ballgowns” in particular, the excessive number of pockets almost become a mockery of the concept, as the pockets are snapped and styled to create drape, folds and volume which perfectly reference a classic ballgown dress.
Another strong feature in the collection is the deconstruction of the typical trouser pattern – from a “closed” pant leg to an “opened” skirt or dress. What may be perceived as a minor adaption, has profound social significance when associated to the controversy (in Western culture) of men wearing skirts or dresses. FLYNN specifically designed the collection to challenge this stigma, resulting in silhouettes which, from afar, look like trousers but on closer inspection, are revealed as a skirt or dress.
The lookbook was styled by Dogukan Nesanir, photographed by Fredrik Altinell and actively art-directed by Flynn herself.
Hermione Flynn is a designer and brand whose clientele share a passion and desire for clothing as an artistic medium, focusing on the creative concept, social commentary and unique design. Often presented alongside a performance art event or film, Flynn engages not only with the clothing, but social commentary, the body, time and space, producing work that is relevant, thorough and socially challenging.
